. 28- North Shore News — Wednesday, April 12, 2000

From previous page

er house of curries, biryanis

and vindalogs. :

Well save the latter for,
another Table Hopping.
installment.

Tonight it’s Palki, the lat-:

” est creation“of veteran East -
“Indian restaurateur
Bhupinder Mroke.

= Roving curry hounds’:
might be familiar with his

= work.)

cu’: Mroke operates a string’
* of Dawat Indian Food |

ooo restaurants that currently has
outlets in Kelowna and =".

Seattlesg 00 SS ee es
“21, Last year-he sold his’

Vancouver Dawat location.”

“and on Feb: 21 he unveiled -
~ his Palki restaurant in the
- off-Lonsdale’' storefront that

: for most. of the previous)

decade liad Housed Yen Jin-:
“Good for'him and good

r.the North Shore’s dining »

repertoir

Not to. denigrate Yen Jin’s™

“performance, but there’s no
“shortage of Chinese. food.

A:good curry. house is a -

good catch, and Palki is
more:than' good.” :
Jin 75-se:

mlortabre bet! Dy MG
wality furnishings at al

- dining room, a pretty plain

low-ceiling affair at the best
of times, now has a rich
‘Indian flavour -— mahogany
chairs, light eggplant
coloured walls trimmed in
deep chili-red, .

“The room still has low
ceilings and a pedestrian view
of east 15th Street — can’t
do much with either of those

- features — but there's lots of
warmth within. | ;

“. Mroke is an attentive host
and dining room manager
Steve Kilewala combines an
appealing tableside manner
with sound menu knowl-.
edge. Elsewhere is a mix of
veterans and recent recruits.
Consistency of service can be
uneven, But that’s to be
expected with any new
restaurant. ~

“2 Nothing uneven about *

Palki’s kitchen; however. It’s’,

quality all the way.

“Northern Indian cuisine, is -.

the focus here.

_ Lots.of rich tomato, but-.’
ter and cream-based sauces; .

ots of tandoori; lots of gin-

{ger, coriander, cardamom, ©.
cinnamon, peppers, yogurt

and curries; baskets of J".
India’s excellent breads —" °

‘soft and chewy-naan — and".

‘crispy lentil wafers’ (papad-:
um); lots of exotic condi-’:

Serving the hate
ces,

ments — mango chutney,
acchar (spicy pickles), raita.

In short: lots of culinary
life. ;

Entrees are served in
stainless steel chafing dishes
that keep selections heated
atop with lit candle below.

Menu sections include
Rotiyan. (breads baked in clay
tandvor.oven: naan varieties
here range from plain to gar-
lic to: Kashmiri, which is >”
stuffed with dried fruiz);

‘Lanvb Specialities (Coconut,

Vindaloo, Methi); Tandoori
(lots of kebobs and grilled
dishes —chicken and lamb
prevail), Curry (the spicy

~ heart of the matter — butter
- chicken, Murgh Vindaloo,

Afghani Murgh — all avail-::

“able in’ mild, medium or hot”

intensities of spiciness);
Seafood (prawn and fish —..
add in coconut; garlic, gins

ger, coriander); Vegetable :
(good range here: lots of.
“lentils, garbanzo beans, pota-
“toes, cauliflower, eggplant
‘and dried fruits); and Rice
(more than just Basmati; try
it with saffron, nuts, raisins

and cashews, for example).
“Entree price range goes

"from approximately $8 to

Best to. combine’a variety.

; “of dishes to appreciate Palki’s

#4 PROVEN -
‘| WORLD'S BEST.
2d] WALL BED

it.qu

range. a wh
Murgh Makhani— a

wonderfully rich dish featur-"

ing tandoor-grilled chicken
breast finished in'a butter,
cream and tomato paste :
sauce — goes well with
Pataila Pulao — a spicy side

dish combining basmati rice...

with peas and mushrooms.
Accompany with cooling’. ”
yogurt raita, spoonfuls of’
mango chutney and that
great- mashed ‘eggplant
Indian speciality Baigan
Bhartha..,.  °.:

Best mopped up with a
garlic naan. ;

‘Not much of a wine list at
~ Palkia baker's dozen of * .
- red and whites ($18 to $27), _.

~~ but wine is not your pre-
ferred refreshment with

Indian food anyway. Stick to - ;

“the brew. A chilled...
Kingfisher lager or Lal."

. Toofan pale:ale, perhaps.

. A’palki in India is an
‘ornate carriage tised to carry
° Indian newly weds on their
~ conjugal journey. "2:
‘- Bhupinder Mroke’s, Palki

“ might not be up to that kind

_ of intense romance, but it,
will carry you’ on-a journey
to some exotic culinary:

“Jocales where there. is much

. heat, and’a touch of passion

“0 boots le

~~: T recommend signing

aboard soon: : 1.
| trenshaw@nsews.com

shington

set potatoes

“TANDOORI Chicken’shares a table with servings of

ralta “and” Butter” Chicken: at
restaurant In North Vancouver

artteachers.
eae
eighDou

Palkl ‘Indian: Cuisine