| Poko aren . a chef ist your kitchen FOR centuries in Europe Sylvester’s night has been an occasion of jolly merri- ment, food, and drinks. Tt was the fast night of the year, December 3tst. Friends and family gathered to have a feast of rich tood and good wine to usher in the New Year. In many countries when large families held such a party, or if it was in a public place, at the stroke of mid- night a live suckling pig was brought in. The guests pulled its tail. They were wishing for a new year tilled with love. health, and tor- tune. The pighet then was taken ro the kitchen (no, it was not Babe), and returned in about three hours on a plat- ter, golden and crunchy with an apple in its mouth. After this meal everyone was treat- ed to sumptuous desserts and more champagne ... an evening to remember for a whole year. This, and other traditions are wonderful exainples when food and folklore niake an intriguing addition to the gastronomic and cul- tural profile of nations. The anecdotal roots of this feast reach back to our pagan past. The Romans believed that drinking and Jewdness were necessary to celebrare the coming of the new year. All that ruckus was sup- posed to confuse the mali- cious gods, so they would not interfere in the lives of mortals for a whole vear. Later, the Goths abserved a similar belief, their unusual behaviour was to scare away evil spirits of the old year. January Ist was accepted as New Year’s day around the middle of the [6th century across Europe. In Christian Europe the tradition gained more com- plexity, gitts were exchanged as a tokens of affection, and in some cases as bribes for public officials. In the 18th century the evening was called Sylvester’s Night. There are a number of versions as to how the name Sylvester became synony- mous with the last night of the vear. Some say it was named after Pope Sylvester, the first pope to hold office after Roman emperors Constantine and Lucinius granted Iegal standing to the Christian church in 313. Or, perhaps after a French saint af the same name? He was Sylvester [1 (945-1045) the first Frenchman to become a pope. One of the mare recent NEWS photo Mike Waketield SOMETHING sweet to help usher in the New Year: a Dry Winter Compote, which combines wine and vari- ous juices with assorted dried fruits. ancedotes tells us that Sylvester was the maiden name of the mother of Dom Perignon, the genius vintner nobleman who discovered the champagne-making process. No one knows for sure. For us, this night offers opportunities to make and to enjey good food. The three recipes this week are sweet dishey closely associated with New Year's Eve celebrations. Try them, This is a traditional Svivester’s sagt dish Crepes with Raisins and Rum De. granulated sugar Sc. unsalted butter oc golden sultana raisins Tsp. ground cinnamon 2-3 Thsp. rum 12-16 crepes, about 9” size Method: Select a glass bowl, addin the catsias and the cum. In place ef rum, for anon aeoholic version add water and rum extract to taste. Cover and fet stand 2 hours, Stir every ance ua while. Cut or tear the crepes into Pe" VPs pieces. Place the butter inte a darge nen stick frypan —- melt. Add the Stata, raisins, ceamamen and the crepe pieces. Loss Hehtly over low te medium heat und) the mixture is warns, Place ona serving platter, decorate with grated walnuts and trozen berries. Crepe Batter Premade frozen crepes are available in some stores , but Tfind them too rebbery. Besides, crepes are tin to prepare, As kids we used to eat them hot, just as they were made, right out of the pan. Thin and lacy, they were wondertll! To succeed, a good crepe pan is essential, non stick, and a plastic lifter, ;, 6 oz. all-purpose flour 4’. milk 3 large epys a little salt to taste 6 Tbsp, clear butter fat, or canola oil Methods Seisch a stanmioss steed bowh Add all the pure dion. whak vigeroush Cover and Keep at rouni temperature tor about | hours. Whe& again. steam through a fine strainer inte another bows evar this stage should be like condensed milk. bit is too thick, add a hale more The consisten- r Sylvester’s night Hear the tvpan. and brush with the butter or orb ieisoaparts brash Pour in wast cnourh barter te cover the pan. Cook over medium het ann! brows on the bor: tom. then tan with the plas tie spatula. 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