Cafe’s menu renewed Fram page 18 Previous tenants of the 1918 vintage residence did little to pave the way for the Moustache experience. They ranged from traders in South American bric-a-brac and ceramic garden dwarves to promoters of Rastafarianism and slingers of something called the Great Canadian sandwich pic. But somehow it attracted the eye of Moustache man Javan Khazali, an expatriate Azerbejani and full-time gas- - tronome, - The good Lord only knows why. Its cramped kitchen was powered by an electric stove and little else. ’ Seating was 30, tops. ‘Not realiy commercial restaurant-abled. But what it did have, in spades, was char- acter. Khazali is a good judge of that. . *.- And much more, _. +. Sofrom humble Canadian : Sandwich Pie Company beginnings has flourished this .. grand gastronomic Moustache. J. ‘The originai featured ~. Mince Gallo on the electric _ grill and won immediate criti- cal applause and a strong core clientele, _”_Ttalso later spawned a Vancouver offspring: Moustache, The Vancouver Edition, which was similarly _--s committed to dining excel- vo) lence. It was likewise critically FREE whooped up. But in late January 1996, Moustache No. 2 was badlv singed in a fire. Khazali was down to a single Moustache. Enough for most aspiring restaurateurs, perhaps, but not the head Moustache man. Tast March, Khazali opened the second edition Moustache No. 2 at 2118 Burrard St. in Vancouver and was back to a pair of restatu- rant operations. Critical applause sounded from both sides of Burrard Inlet. Well deserved, too. On the North Shore, Moustache No. 1 has gone from electric stove and unworkable residential kitchen space to full natural- gas-powered kitchen in larger, burt still confined cooking quarters. The original 30 seats is now about 45, with a full outdoor patio serviced at the end of the monsoon season. Its food quality through- out the restaurant’s various incarnations has never wavered: first rate all the way. Chefs have ranged from Gallo to Andrey Durbach to Paul MacEwen and Ross Spence. Presiding over the 1998 edition cf the Moustache is the talented Geoff Lundholm, who has been joined most recently by ex-Le Gavroche kitchen talent Allan Murray. There is no substitute for Kitchen talent. The Moustache experience reflects that dining truism. And its continuing popu- larity confirms the wisdom of investing in it. The Moustache’s menu tends tov-ards brevity. Short and sweet: inspirational from top to bottom. MARCH IS CUSTOMER APPRECIATION MONTH! ‘Purchase any regular menu item at the - | regular price, and receive one FREE small ‘soft drink of your choice. ‘* One per customer per purchase _* Valid only at the North Vancouver location (Norgate Shopping Center) 1493 Marine Drive, N. Vanc. pag a o, oO OFF all “Irish” Pots & Pans Tools and Techniques ita. The Store For Cooks " 950- 16th Street: Weat Vancouver - Tel: (604) 925-1835 Store Hours: Mon-Thurs 9-6» Fri 9-9 Sat 9-6 - Sun 12-5 y north shore news R DINING Openers (S5 to $10) pre- sent options that include Steamed Prince Edward Island Mussels in a ginger, lemon grass and mango cream broth; Smoked Ahi Tuna Carpaccio; and Confit of Fraser Valley Duck. Entrees (S13 to $23) range from Homemade Gnocchi with fresh sage in rose sauce to Grilled Pork Loin with nutmeg risotto and Calvados pear jus and Grilled Tiger Prawns accompanied with Basmati rice, haricot verts, carrot puree and jalapeno lime aioli. Murray brings with him a whole new Moustache menu that will likely be in place by the time you read this. A sneak preview: Duck sausages with apples and mustard jus; Swordfish kebabs; Salmon and cod fish cakes; Roasted Salmon with sweet and sour eggplant, raita and lime pickle potatoes; Mushroom dusted fillet of beef; Basil infused Breast of Duck with turnip confit and red wine jus. Nightly specials expand the restaurant’s kitchen reper- toire on all fronts. Best not to make a decision without digesting those options. Which brings us from the grill to the front door. Great kitchens can do much, but without a similarly talented dining room much will be lost between oven and table top. The steak without the siz- zie. That is not the Moustache way. Khazali leads that dining room charge, but, talented though he might be, he can't be two places at the same time. Which is where maitre d’ Mike! Kanter enters, stage right. The ex- Bishop’s restaurant frontman alternates with Khazali on the two Moustache fronts. The nwo deliver the restaurants’ quality kitchen production with suitable showmanship and expertise. Expect kid-gloved care from both, and delivery of dining details and viticultural suggestions with charm and depth of knowledge. Kanter doubles as a som- melier extraordinaire. The Moustache wine list (starts at about $24 and runs up to $100 and beyond) iz rich with interesting selections from France (92 Chateau La Grave), Italy (a °52 Burgogno Riserva Barolo, perhaps?), ypecial Port Wine Sauce Roast Stuffed Chicken Leg, Florentine Schnitzel, St. Moritz style New York Sirlon, Onion Rings Rosemary Roast Lamb Chutney California and the Pacific Northwest. Not many by the glass, though: an import and house, usually sound selec- tions, however. Leave recommendations to Mr. Kanter. You won't be dis- appointed. As to the work of chef Lundholm: On a recent Friday night, Table Hopping sampled an evening's special appetizer thar featured beet-cured salmon wrapped round a pyramid of pickled daikon radish. The brilliant deep red salmon strips were topped with fish roe and sunflower sprouts and finished in a graceful tobiko (flying fish roe oil) vinaigrette. Main dishes sampled included roasted veal Join atop a delicious cassoulet of beans and surrounded with a rock shrimp vinaigrette. The linguini came with prawns marinated in sweet chilies and oven roasted roma tomatoes, cilantro and olive oil. All items were excellent. Plate presentation was high art. Crockery and glassware play artistic backdrop to the gastronomy presented. Bowls wide and all embracing; wine glasses of all sizes to comple- ment the chosen vintage and wince type. . Glassware, art on the walls, attention to table top detail and imagination in the kitchen all distinguish the Moustache from the competition. Service is impeccable. You will not wait for dish- es nor will you be interrupted at the wrong moment. The Monstache’s dining room, which is due for an interior color upgrade, is dec- orated with fine art and warmed with an open fire and the crackle of spirited conver- sation. Stylish and distinguished, as any good Moustache should be. 900 Tasty morsels: Park Royal Hotel, 540 Clyde Ave., West Vancouver, 926-5511. The Tudor Roon1 is set to play host to a pair of wine maker’s dinners. Washington state’s White Heron Vineyards is scheduled to visit the Tudor Dining Room tonight (Wednesday, March 4). While Naramata, B.C.’s Lang Vineyards is scheduled This Week Prune Stuffed Medallions of Pork $10.95 $9.95 $10.95 $11.95 $10.95 Classy, Casual Dining 445 - 13th Street @ West Vancouver 13th & Marine ® Ambleside Wednesday. March 4, 1998 - North Shore News - 19 provided by the representa- tives from the host winery. Tickets are $75 per per- Flavour of India son. 6 Years of Successful Operation Serving Authentic Indian Gourmet Cuisine, J BUFFET “2s&Meor %Q95 5-8 P.M. TUES.-THURS. DINNER ol purchase 1 entree at reg price & sec. 2nd entree at 50% off exp Mar 10/98 mm, Open7 Days a Week 985-5477 Hours Tues - Sat 5-]Opm. Sun & Mon 5-9pm GB 175 ©. 3rd St. N. Van. ample parking west se of building to follow on Wednesday, Mav 6. The dinners traditionally feature five-course meals and a host of top end vintages RED CHILLI RESTAURANT 741 Lonsdale Avenue 986-2088 LUNCH PLATTER $17.95 for two Offer expires March 15/98 Lunch: Mon.-Fri. 11:30am-2:30pm Dinner: Mon.-Sat. 5:00 pm - 11:0 922-6282... 1747 Marine Dr, West Yan