Wednesday, August 3, 1994 - North Shore News - 33 a. Celebrate summer with fresh taste of B.C. produce Edena Sheidon CUISINE SCENE TRERE'S A big celebration going on right now over at Michael Kaile’s gorgeous Waterfront Centre Hotel. A summer salute to our local seasonal best — strawberries, blueberries, peaches, apri- cots, cherries, peas, corn, pep- pers, cucumbers, tomatoes and the like as each crop comes into season. And who's doing best-of-the-best with this harvest of great produce? Executive chef Thomas Dietzel, that’s who. Where to sumple his spe- ciai fresh sheets and innovative sum- mer menus? At the hotel's restau- rant, Herons. I can’t think of a prettier place for summer dining than the open and airy settiig of Herons. Frorn what! sampled last week, it was some of the lightest. most creative cooking in town. i recenily attended a special Chef's Table Lunch with Dietzel, held right in the cenivre of the kitchen! A great setting, and perfect chance to watch as Dietzel and his new sous-chef Bob Fortin in action. I marveled at how they produced course after course for 16 of us, dined with us for each course, and brought plate after plate with mini- mal fuss. To give you an idea of what to expect in the hotel’s harvest promo, I'll tell you what we were served. Allof it light, simple, colorful, and extraordinarily beautiful to look at. Dietzel's philosoy hy toward fresh summer produce shone through (like the summer sun itself). “In the summertime, when every- thing is so fresh from our local fields, you don’t have to tamper too much with the natural taste. The idea is to enhance the flavors, not cover it up. My cooking style in summer is to make it simple. not complicated. “] like to do very simple dishes, not using much fat at all, which are refreshing during the hot summer days. Lots of liquid soups served icy cold. 1 like to use all the abundance of fresh berries, fresh herbs, baby lettuces. The climate calls for it.” Dietzel began with a stunning starter —- grilied baby vegetables | EDGEMONT VILLAGE Corner of Edgemont Blvd. & Queens marinated in his eooscherry vinai- grette and served on a wonderful savory tomate sabaen.. something | have never before tasted — a vex- ctable (ist on the more familiar sweet sabayon dessert dish. He selected baby squashes, oyster mushrooms, tiny beets and carrots (so intensely sweet in favor), reed- thin asparagus, colorful peppers and Japanese eggplant. These were mari- nated, grilled, and served patch- work-style on the warm sabayon sauce. Gooseberries were scattered for added color and flavor, Great! Next up was icy cold bowls of vibrant green chilled cucumber soup with fresh mint leaves tucked in. Back to the burners and one of the prettiest summer plates {ve seen. Thin slices of roasted loin of veal, crispy lacy vegetable gallertes, a puddle of thyme and red wine glaze, miniscule moiusseron mushrooms “(aiso called fairy rings due to the ring-like clusters they grow in), and a rainbow-hued timbale of carrots and spinach. Dietzel's “nouvelle classique” style of cooking reaily showed in this plate. The sweet finale was inspired: anise liqueur-flamed fresh seasonal berries served with quenelles of frozen berry yogurt and nougatine mousse, Cocoa-dusted artwork on the plate, droplets of fresh fruit . coulis swirled here and there, and a chocolate lace butterfly thrown in. His menus are light and healthy without being fussy or cutesy. Dietzel loves the open kitchen and everyone can see the preparations. * As for our special lunch in the ‘kitchen, it was a result of a very per- sonal feeling of his. “When I was growing up (this talented 34-year old from West Germany boasts a father, grandfather, and three brothers that are all chefs!) the heart of the house was the kitchen, and it’s a comfort- able feeling to share — that’s what food is all about!” Try some of these recipes to see what I’m so enthusiastic about. CHILLED CHERRY AND CHAMPAGNE SOUP Hurry and try this delectable chilled summer soup while the Tast of the fresh cherries are in season! Serve ive cold in chilled glass bowls or large goblets. and garnish with a sprig Of fresh mint. Serves four, 1 Jb. (500 g) Okanagan cherries, chilled (sweet bing variety) %e. (125 mL) champagne (or B.C. sparkling wine), chilled % ce. (50 mL) natural plain yogurt, chilted Fresh imint leaves Pit the cherries (a cherry pitter is useful!). Ina food processor, puree the pitted cherties. Add the cham- pagne, then the yogurt, and mix in the processor 30 seconds. Puss the soup through a sieve. Chill 60 minutes. Serve ice cold in chilled bowls. Garnish each serving with a sprig of fresh mint, POTATO ZUCCHINI GALLETTES Dietzel served these lacy, crispy vegetable eallettes recently at a spe- cial chefs table luncheon. They mac a terrific accompani- ment to gritied or roast meats. (One of the nicest recipes of this type that I've ever tasted, | might add.) Serves four. 2 tbs. (1 kg) Russet potatoes, washed and peeled (do not rinse) 1 small zucchini, halved and seed- ed 1 tsp. (5 mL) fresh thyme (or % tsp/2 mL dry) 1 tsp. (5 mL) cornstarch Pinch salt and pepper Shred the potatoes into long juli- enne strands (using a mandoline or hand-held grater with large holes) 2" (5 cm) in lenzth. Do not rinse! Set aside no longer than five minutes, Pat dry. Julienne the zucchini exactly the same. Pat dry as well. Combine the long shredded veg- etables with the thyme, the corn- starch, and seasonings. Toss with GOOSEBERRY VINAIGRETTE _ your hands io coat strands evenly. “Dietzel served this lovely vinai- grette aver seasonal baby greens (topped with hot almond-coated baby goat's cheese!) at a recent reception held on the roof terrace to welcome Harry Dodson (star of the BBC's Victorian Flower Garden), Prepare this vinaigrette as a driz- zle over baby romaine, endive. bibb lettuce, and any variety of greens from your garden. Serves four. 12 ripe gooseberries Scant 4% c. (100 mL) white wine vinegar 1 c, (250 mL) vegetable oil (sun- flower or safficwer) 2 shallots, finely minced Sait and white pepper % tsp. (1 mL) granulated sugar Purée the gooseberries smooth. Bring the vinegar to a boil, and pour over the purée. Let stand until com- pletely cooled. Whisk in the remaining ingredi- ents. Serve at once, or cover and chill overnight. Whisk smooth before serving. §83-9330 | Hy We reserve the right to timit quantities. Prices in etfect Wed., Aug. 3 to Tues., Aug. 09, 1994 Heat a small amount of cooking oy NEWS photo Paul McGrath PICK OF the crop! A celebration of seasonal fruits, berrias, and tender veggies is on now at Herons restaurant at the Waterfront Centre Hotel, with special menus from executive chef Thomas Dietzel. Happy summer dining! oil (vegetable or peanut) in a large non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. Form the vegetable mixture into 3” (8 cm) round pancakes quite thin. (They should be lacy, not compact- ed.} Fry the gallettes without crowd- ing until golden brown on both sides, turning with a wide spatula once. Remove from the frying pan and drain on paper towels or nap- kins. Serve at once. To reheat the gallettes: Prepare them up to one hour in advance, if dc.ired, Warm in a pre-heated 350°F (180°C) oven, in a single layer, five to seven minutes to crisp.