Favana st heart of Cuba DR. RONALD Newton, 4 pro- fessor in history at Simon Fraser University and avid Latin-America watcher, recently visited Cuba, making arrangements for Simon Fraser’s first field school in that country, durisig the spring of 1988. He noted fascinating changes in Cuba, 25 yeurs after the revolu- tion. Visitors to Cuba who see only Havana will miss the New Cuba. Makers of the Cuban Revolution have resisted temptation to make the capitaf a Socialist showplace and directed efforts to the interior, where the island’s productive ca- pacity lies, and where the peasant- ry, the revolution’s original politi- cal base, lives. Well-policed and clean, Havana is still beautiful, but seedy. One consequence of negiect is that it has not been overwhelmed by migrants flecing rural poverty and desperation. Unlike Mexico City, Lima, San- tiago, Sao Paulo or Buenos Aires, Havana is not ringed by seething shanty towns. While Cuba’s popu- lation has nearly doubled to 10 million, Havana remains under two million. There are no beggars. Like all Beware of From page 48 If your taste is for mixed drinks, better Jearn to drink them warm — ice cubes are often contaminated. xhik This column is becoming depressing! But, since it’s being written at the request of a mother with a son headed for the Far East, I'd better carry on. The next problem facing a trav- eller is the sun. Our temperate climate simply doesn’t prepare us for tropical heat and only those who have experienced it can understand the speed at which the tourist can get sunstroke and sun- burn. I've had both and wouldn't recommend either — a combina- tion of the two is practically murderous. Sunstroke brings fever and chills, nausea and such a headache you'll consider amputation. Your body screams for fluids and pain pills, but you’re so sick Ca Cons Cubans, Habaneros (residents of Havana) enjoy full employment: rents, basic food and clothing, transport, entertainment and vaca- tions are nominal in cost; educa- tion and medical care are free; there are no personal taxes. Cubans pack the nearby Carib- bean beaches; theatres and bailet, restaurants, cinemas, nightclubs and sports events, are thriving. Children are scrubbed, healthy, neatly dressed and alarmingly ac- tive. Private autos are rare. In Havana, public transport is more than adequate, but diese] fumes are everywhere. Store clerks, waiters, and minor functionaries have raised the tech- nique of avoiding the client’s eye to a high art. Habaneros line up for transport, groceries, most con- sumer commodities, restaurants, and the universal Cuban treat: Coppelia ice crean:. Recently, the yovernment has begun ‘allocating resources to Havana, Renovation of the colo- nial core is well under way, partly with UNESCO aid. Founded in 1519, before Spain’s Law of the Indies imposed grid patterns on cities in the American empire, Havana’s streets meander. the beach you can’t keep either down. Meanwhile, every exposed inch of your skin is on fire. J think the only thing that saved my life was that I was staying with three friends, all of them doctors. For three days they took turns get- ting up every three hours to bring me medications. Some house guest I was. weak The beach can pose even more problems than the sun, To name a few: pollugion from raw sewage, cuts from carelessly discarded cans and bottles, stings from creatures such as rockfish and a grand opportunity for mugg- ings and robberies. Before going to any beach area, inquire about possible pollution. Wear sandals. Lock your valuables in the hotel safe but carry some money with you. 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