a - Wednesday, May 21, 1997 ~ North Shore News

“Spanish wines hot sellers

A recent Wine Spots
review of excellent
value-priced Spanish
ced, Palacio de Arganza .
1988 ($10.85), gener-
ated a good deal of
fanfax and assorted
inquisitive mail, (I do
try to answer these
personally, usually by
phone or mail, so teel
free to write in if you
have a question and
@include your number.)

Several readers enquired
“about the 1989 vintage
available alongside the '88 at
the same price. Is it as good?
fan Radiak, the agent for
Arganza Canada Lid., said
we might find it “slightly
lighter” than the massive
rich ’88 and he was right,
but modestly so: the 89 we
sampled didn’t get a chance
to fully develop the porty
complexity of the 88
because it disappeared too
quickly.
Glasses of this silky, fully
mature red were drained in
. ho time and whines of
“ 4Please sir, can I have some
more?” followed by groans
of dismay at the empty flask
and the sound of jaws hitting
the floor when T announced

* seeejt cost under $11.
Load up-all you can~

afford before it goes the ray

of the °88, which vanished

immediately after.the Wine

‘; Spots review appeared —

“ including what 1 thought
was my secret cache at the
‘Lyan Valley. LDB.

(To whoever got there
before me: Pll get even
someday, somehow...)

The 89 is still vigorous
and could be laid down in a
COOL dark spot for a cou-

SALE ON

NOW.

2 YadvdTIVM #

FROM

elt Gynt

John Moore
WINE SPOTS

ple of years — thottgh you
will want to pull a cork and
clock it, strictly in the inter-
est of “quality control”,
every six months or so.

For the moment, it shows
no sign of premature ageing,
going light and “bricky”, as
even some $25 Spanish
reservas seem inclined to do,

A remarkable feat for a
nonreserva wine from the
not terribly renowned
regions of Castilla Y Leon,

Bur it is worth noting -

that the very highly regarded
Pesquera reds ($27.95 &
$40.35 for the reserva)
come from the neighbor-
hood, as does the great low-
rent bargain, Tinto Zamora
($8.50).

Back at the Palacio, I also
sampled both the white and
rose from the Arganza sta-
ble, neither of which is listed
by the LDB but are available
as house wines at restaurants

dike La Bodega.

The dangerously neutral
bouquet of the white had me
wincing in anticipation of
one of those bone-dry char-
acterless Spanish whites
about which “corrosive”
seems the only appropriate
adjective.

Wrong again.

Light, with subtle fruit
and and a clean finish well
this side of astringency—not

a trace of acidic
hearthurn-in-a-
glass, even when
allowed to hit room
temperature,
Perfect: fur shellfish
and light tapas
grazing,
The rose is what
Californians would
label “White
Grenache”; pink
wine, but hey, all 1
could think of was
how pertectly this would go
with grilled salmon; just
enough fruit to set off the

fish without overwhelming
it.

A vastly more appropriate
and creative pairing than
marrying your delicate fish
10 some massively ‘fat? over-
gaked chardonnay and a
good rose is also the best
mate for mussels if you're
‘inventing’ your awa
Marinara-style sauce,

Or you can just stretch
out at La Bodega and let
them do the cooking and the

washing up while you tuck °

into another flask of wine
and some more tapas,

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