Great f

VERY OCCASIONALLY, between the g grease and
gratuity of the restaurant review racket, a reviewer
stumbles onto a jewel.

Ee
table

hopping

by Timothy

Renshaw
po |

The experience sets to ex-

hilerating flambe blase taste
buds that claim to have tasted
itall, and it reaffirms cynical
reviewer faith in the culinary
arts.
_ The Nutshell, 4402 Gallant
Avenue, is such a jewel: a
25-seat vehicle driving in the
left lane’ against the
predominate flow of fast
food, fast ‘service, and fast
profit; a vehicle dedicated to
_the experience of dining.

In what was originally a
retail outlet for nuts and was
for so long a short. order
grease pit servicing the indif-
ferent appetites: of boaters
and bathers,. Nutshel!
owners,. Julia and Stan
Hilcknian, have set up a
quirky haven for gourmets
that overlooks the scenery
and serenity of Deep Cove
harbor and Indian Arm.

The Nutshell is basically a
two-man operation.
Cloistered in kitchen quarters
smaller than those of the
average household, Chef
Denis Fillion labors in
solitary brilliance: the master
craftsman broiling, sautee-
ing, and simmering with rare
inspiration, producing results
that will bring tears to the
eyes and lumps to the throats
of anybody who appreciates
food in ail its glory.

Nutshell meals are cooked
“‘a la minute” not en masse
in the morning or the day
before. A daily table d’ hote
meal special (four or five
courses usually running to
around $24) is prepared by
Fillion to complement the
restaurant's menu and ive

vent to his
cleativity,

Twelve regular menu ap-
petizers range from the
artichoke-stuffed and curried
cream cheese-covered
Avocado Cynara ($3) to
Shrimp Degas ($4), shrimps
sauteed in Pernod, 19 that
raw meat legend, Steak Tar-
tar (37). Be sure, whilst stroli-
ing through the appetizers, to
ask about the Algarve
($4.50), a delicious ode to the
proofreaders art.

Fillion has provided The
Nutshell with eight entre
selections that cover all the
major bases without throw-
ing in any well-worn steak
and lobster standbys. Each
dish fires the imagination and
stimulates the salivary
glands.

From Breast of Chicken
Mondegliano ($11.50), stuff-
ed with oysters, soaked in
brandy and white wine sauce,
to curried sword-shrimp serv-
ed in pastry shell a la Shrimp
Bombay (374.50) to the
Nobel prize nominated,
Game Hen Hemmingway
($15), a deboned bird,
marinated, stuffed with rice,
then wrapped in cabbage
leaves and baked in clay, and
finally served with a
Mandarin-Cointreau sauce.
Papa would be proud.

Maiching Fillion’s kitchen-
bound brillance is maitre d’
Jeffrey Gourley, The Nut-
shell’s ione waiter, wine
steward, busboy, and bon vi-
vant. Dressed in white shirt,
black tuxedo, slicked back
hair, and bow tie, Gourley
looks like an escapee from an
F. Scott Fitzgerald Long
Island garden party.

In constant motion, he
dispenses unruffled charm

bubbling

and humor with the beauty of >

Nutshell entre presentation, ,
Because of its philosophy
of quality food preparation
over quantity table turnover,
The. Nutshell is not a place
for the hyperactive diner.
To the crisp accompani-
ment of a Sylvaner Hugel
($15), a four-member review
team sampled Salad Capri
($4.75 full portion; $2.50 half
portion), a shrimp, spinach,
artichoke. heart, and
gratefruit melange; and Piri
Piri Prawns ($6.50), an ex-
quisite and fiery paprika, hot
red pepper, garlic, and olive
oil sauteed prawn dish.
Entres experienced by
Team Table Hop included
Cioppino ($12.50), an Italian
bouillabaisse featuring crab

Chowder-heads

to clam

NORTH VANCOUVER
Folkfest will create many
‘stirring moments’ this year.

Individuals and groups are
being asked to enter the 1985
North Vancouver Clam
Chowder Championship
sponsered by the Lynn
Valicy Centre Merchants
Association.

The fun begins at 2 p.m,
Sunday, June 23 at Lynn
Valley Centre. A jot is at

it up

stake - the winner of the
cook-off wins the 1985
Championship trophy and
fame for having the best
chowder on the North
Shore,

For further information,
details of prize categories
and entry forms contact
Head Chowder-Head, John
Gordon at 980-9354,

Entries may be limited, so
apply early for your chance
to ‘clam it up'

—_———

Be Water Wise, Play it Safe.

Boating ana alcchol are a deadly mix.
ma 50% of all boating accidents involve alcohol.

pincers, mussel, clams (calins
at The Nutshell), and fresh
cod; Veal Margueriia ($12)
distinguished by saute of
green peppercorns, scallops,
and tequila; six-ounce Filet
Mignon ($12.50), a classic,
and Duck Martinique ($15),
roasted and served with
papaya and topped with an
ambitious gin sauce. Donald,
Daffy. and Duey would be
equally proud.

Nutshell magic does not
expire after main course. Six
desserts, from Zabaglione
served over fresh fruit ($4.25)
to Peche Flambe ($4.75),
peaches cured in Kirsh for

ood in a Nutshell

three days, served with
Strawberry puree, and
flambeed tableside in) dark

rum, will have you chanting
for Chef Fillion as were my
tablensates until | threatened
to stick them with the bill
(S118 for four}.

The Nutshell isa small, but
genuine, slice of that even
smaller pie of dining ex-
periences. ft ranks with the
best restaurants, not only
within the boundaries of the
North Shore, but with any
restaurant in the Lower
Mainland.

Open for lunch 11:30 a.m.
to 3 p.m. and dinner 5 p.m.

dinners

Buy one of ‘the following entrees for $9 and
your guest will receive any one of the following
entrees Free with this ad.

¢ 5 oz. Swiss Steak in Red Wine Sauce
with baked potato & fresh vegetable

¢ Shrimp and Scallop Casserole
with rice & fresh vegetable

* Chicken and Mushroom Crepes
with rice & fresh vegetable

* Schnitzel with Mushroom Gravy

with baked potato & fresh vegetable

7 days a week from 4:30-8:30 p.m.
June 17 - June 30, 1985*

*Present 2 for $9" dinners available through June 16

Reservations 987-8812
1301 Lonsdale, North Van

FREE UNDERGROUND
PARKING

The Classified
word for today is

REAL
ESTATE

ré-al es-tat: land, together
with any buildings on it.
Whether buying or selling,
homes move faster in the
Classitieds. Find the nome
of your dreams or sell your
present home in the easy,
convenent Classifieds.
Buyers and sellers meet
every day in the Classifieds.
Find what you need and sell ,
what you don't need in the
Classifieds.

rnorth shore a

" 986- 6222

Lunch: 11:30.4:30
1 from 5 pm
Sundays from 4 pm

Sunday Brunch = 11303

ENIORS’ SUPPER
EVERY NIGHT

ony * aD

includes your choice of:

Entree:

§3 - Friday, June 21, 1985 - North Shore News

service is available within the
Mt. Seymour area.

onward, Tuesday to Sunday.
Complimentary limousine

You can't beat
Charley’ s for
i aste.

2 ‘Dinners from $4.95

® Dancing Thurs.
Fri. & Sat. nites
« Sunday Brunch

SPECIAL OF THE WEEK
(JUNE 23-2¢, 85)

CHICKEN

$ 5 95
Valid daily 3-8 pm

FISH & CHIPS
2 ror 1 $495.

COUPON

GOOD ONLY JUNE 23, 24, 25, ’85
VALID 3-8 pm

ee ee ee ee oe ee ed

FREE APPETIZERS
COUPON
With every entre from the
menu, get one free choice
of any appetizer items that
are $2 85 or less only

Good only June 26, 27, ’85 Valid 3-8 p.m.

Black Sheep Sun-Thur

121 E. 12th St. . 20:
off Lonsdale 11:32 am Piet pm
. Van. 11:30 pm-11:20 pm

RESERVATIONS: 984-9595

' Summer Hours

Z

SOUP or SALAD’

Fish & Chips
Saimon Steak
Chicken Pot Pie
Salisbury Steak
Liver and Onions
&

Tea or Coffee

Entree includes fresh
daily vegetables
and choice of potatoes.

Join us
every night
4:00-8:00 pm

Park Royai South

right beside Eaton’s

922-8215

Licensed premises

®

*