Sunday, September 10, 2000 — North Shore News - 39 === FRAVEL-———— Fiona Hughes Contributing Writer SEDONA, Arizona: “You must be a gnarly rider — everyone from Vancouver is gnarly,” said moun- tain biker George. Uh oh, what have I got myself into, I thought, as our group saddled up to ride the crimson wails around Sedona. Was George about to shave years off my life by taking me on a trail only athletes like Alison Sydor could conquer? “No,” I replied feebiy. “Pra fairly new to the sport, honest.” - Despite my lopsided-fitting helmet and blanched face, George wasn’t buying it. Little did 1 know when [ planned my active. holiday in northern Arizona that Vancouver's reputation as a centre of body- bruising mountain biking would precede me, but even folks in the Grand Canyon state (or at least the staff at Mountain Bike Heaven) are aware of the B.C. scene. The same can’t be said of our knowledge of the wealth of mountain biking and hiking opportunities in central and northern Arizona. An increasing number of Vancouverites make the long trek to ride in Moab, in eastern Utah. Those same people should con- . Sider a change in scenery and check out Sedona and Flagstaff. Twenty-five miles apart and at vastly different elevations, : Sedona is'as different fom Flagstaff as Vancouver is from the .. Okanagan. But you don’t have to be a hardcore mountain biker to enjoy these two towns. Both have hundreds of tails ranging in difficulty from beginner to expert and advanced. They're also ~ercellent bases to explore archeological, historical and natural wonders in the area, like the Grand Canyon, Meteor Crater, the Lowell Observatory and Sinagua Indian sites. ; Finally convincing George of my lack of experience but my -.. + willingness to try anything (heck, if it’s too difficult I'd just wall “.. my. bike) we headed fur Broken Arrow, a trail named after the “1950 movie of the same name filmed in Sedona. . -. +: Although the ‘area can /fesemble an amusement park . with’ so’many pink jeeps and tourists, the riding is spectacu- lar; with a wide variety of ter- rain —‘single track, ‘slick-rock and jeep roads. The stunning :. views of Sedona’s famous and prehistoric-looking red rocks : Must have inspired the creators “| of the Flintstones. 5. - Surprisingly * for: a cyclists’ mecca, Sedona lacks bike lanes along its two. main highways . ° thar ‘Jead to all the ‘tails... Poorly. controlled. growth | in < the 80s led to strip mall hell, ' but the town did ry to blend - buildings’ in? with « the “red “rocks, “including: the” McDonald’s, whose. golden ~arches: are’ pastel-green ‘ arcs painted ona’ pink ‘stuccced’ - wall. But don’t fret about the traffic. Riding on the sidewalks :. is acceptable."* . re 2 Rated «intermediate, Broken “Arrow ‘is. a_7.3-mile. ‘loep that passes sandstone for- . Mations -with _ names ‘like * Submarine. Rock, | Snoopy. “Rock, Two Nuns, Courthouse ‘Butte. and the: Three: Sisters : _ (seen from a different angie, ©. this. rock became -'an ‘erotic’. tableau with a name that made” - “me blush): The.flora is beauti- ~ fal” but hazardous—especially. -: “when you're ‘so awed bythe <" scenery you forget to concen- trate on the trail. As often as i . tuumbled,: 1: was . lucky. not to and my sore behind on a cac--: tus. I. did,:. however, get. pricked by its “skin-piercing - “needles. 2 Oo. - ho, Because it’s one .of the- = prettiest locations in Arizona, © Sedona attracts five to six mil-. : ness levels. ~~ the... views . in “ peace «an h out the famed “ : oe . : photo submitted ARIZONA is. packed with scenic hiking trails for ail fit-- e Vancouver legend to Ariz have been finding points where, they claim, the earth's energy is focused. Around Beli Rock, one of the best-known vertex sites, [ encountered a park ranger and asked if he could pinpoint a spot where I°d feel the vibe. “It’s not everyone who feels it,” he told me. “You have to be open to it.” Evidently, I was as locked up as Fort Knox. , After four days hiking and biking in Sedona, 1 drove half an hour north along scenic and windy Highway 89A through Oak Creek Canyon to Flagstaff and continued my plans to spend each vacation day working up a sweat. Flagstaff turned out to be a muscle-hardening workout, especially when I hocked up with a local mountain biker and racer who introduced me to a few of the hundreds of miles of trails in and around the San Francisco Peaks. ’ Dubbed by some as the Kathmandu our Cuzco of Arizona, Flagsta’ for the outdoor athlete who enjoys mountain biking, hik- ing and rock climbing. The high elevation also attracts lowland Arizonans escaping searing summer heat. Located at the base of the 12,600 foot Humphreys Peak, (the highest point in Arizona) which dominates the land- scape, Flag is a low-key university town of 57,000, marked- ly different trom Sedona in atmosphere’ and geography. Although larger, it’s less touristy and populated by a more eclectic group of people — professionals in suits and ties, cowboys, Natives, European and Asian tourists, students, ~ profkssors, hippie holdeuts from the °60s and road trippers cruising the famous Route 66, which cuts through the town alongside the Santa Fe Railroad tracks. Prior to any physical activity in Flagstaff, it’s wise to spend Va day or wo acclimasizing to the 7,000 foot elevation if” arriving from sea level. The terrain is mountainous, which means many rides will include steep climbs and descents that can wind the fittest person. Riders will notice that trails often border on private property and/or wilderness. Respect for these restrictions ensures land access for cyclists remains open. ; ’ Feeling ambitious, I tackled the Lower Broukbank trail, a moderate to hard (a challenge in my case) four-mile tek that climbs to 8,806 feet and terminates in 2 scenic mead- ow called Dry Lakes Hill, an idyllic spot for lunch and gaz- - ing at Humphreys Peak and mule deer munching on the grass. ; te After fuelling up, I took off on the exhilarating part of the tide and hooked onto Schultz Creek, a beautiful: single track through Ponderosa pines with just enough technical . terrain to make it fun for even the most experienced cyclist. phote submitted THE mountainous terrain of Sedona and Flagstaff presents a new challenge to dedicated trail riders. Remember, though, to acclimatize yourse!f to the elevation. (or Flag as the locals call it) is a multi-sport mecca - ‘This bermed and speedy downhill is considered one of the best in Flagstaff. Flagstaf?’s singletracks tend to be twisty and fast with trees bordering both sides, which makes hel- mets a must. Six days in Flagstatf wasn't engugh. Not only are there endless trails to hike and bike (with skiing in winter), the city is an excellent base for exploring northern Arizona. It’s also a destination in its own right with museums, spelunking, the fascinating Lowell Observatory, a historical downtown and, thanks to Northern Arizona University students . and tourists looking for excitement, northern Arizona’s best night-lite. ‘ B {f you go: In Sedona, an excellent resource for rentals, gear, group. rides and local information (including places to find the cheapest and best pint in town) is Mountain Bike Heaven, 520-282-1312 or visit . On the Internet, is also a useful — site. . & Hiking: Hiking is possible year-round on the scenic trails in Red Rock State Park, Coconino National Forest and the Sedona/Oak Creek Canyon area. ° me @ Lodging: Accommodation is expensive in Sedona, unless you share expenses. I stayed-at Days Inn for two nights, and the swish Double Tree Resort (1-800-222-TREE) for another two nights to spoil my aching muscles in the pool and hot tub after a day of cycling. Flagstaff . , @ Biking: Locals consider Mountain Sports (www.mountain- - sport.com or 520-779-5156) the best shop for biking and sport- ing needs in Flagstaff. oo: ae: @ Hiking: The San Francisco Peaks offer tails for ali fimness lev~--- els. Mt. Elden is closest to the city. Hiking is possible in spring, ~: summer and fall. Skiers and boarders take over in winter. ~- & Accommodation: Flagstaff provides plenty of cheap and mad-.- erate lodgings like the friendly AmeriSuites Hotel (520-774-.° 8042), which serves an above-average continenta! breakfast and has a pool and hot tub. “what you are about to read ts true! Visit Athens, Messina, Rome, Monaco, Barcelona and: Madeira ” enjoy carefree days at sea. Ciub Med *P On Sate! Save $50fadutt' & $E5fchitd when you book your fall.or winter holiday. with us. by. September 30! Cal your locals. Club Med Experts today. Edgemont Office 986-2262" t Ambleside Office: "BC Reg: #3404-2