20 — Friday. November 6, 1998 - North Shore News

italian
kosher
cuisine
time
tested

@ Cucina Ebraica — Flavors
of the Italian Jewish Kitchen
by Joyce Goldstein with
photographs by Ellen
verman, Chronicle Books
1998, 144 pp.. over 300
coiour photos, $43.95 cloth.

A cultural history and recipe book of the first order Joyce Goldstein

from celebrated San Francisco chef Joyce Goldstein.
The Jewish culture established itsely in Ttaly over 300 vears ago and has produced a rich
kosher tradition that retains ity links to Middle E ypani tonal drets,
Considering the fet that Italy was a group of independent states until IS48 there ps no
single cuisine. “The differences among the dishes of Lombardy, the Veneto and Apulia are
often as great as the differences among the dishes of Spain, France and Gr
Goldstein. “] have tocused on the Jewish foods of Rome, Sicth, the Veneto eP
este, Emilia Romagna io Mantua, and espe
where a Jewish dialect is spoken to this day). and Puscar
and the Maremma, especially the communities of Livorne
and Pitighano.”

The Jewish population of Italy today is approximately 40,000

with the largest communities in Rome and Milan.

As well as being a cultural detective Goldstein needed all of her culinary skills to bring the

recipes into workable menus. Almost all of them have been passed down orally and do not
contorm to today’s exact standards. Measurements were vague to say dhe feast such as
“assenthle dough in the usual manner” or “roast until dane

Goldstein also modified some recipes she thought we
been done. ish i tural context. For example with Ravioli con da
Barucea (Pumpkin-tiked ravioli) Goldstein states that: "Pumpkin arrived in Eraly via 1
Spanish and Portuguese Jews after the Inguisition. Although popular in Ancona and Ferrara,

these much-loved ravioli are a specialty of Mantua, where a sizable Jewish community thrived

during the reign of the Gonzaga family.
Cueina Ebraicn is a work of art and a worthy addition to every cook's bookshelf.

— Joln Goudman

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ends November 20, 1998.

> too bland but notes when this has

THE Jewish

Community Centre in

Vancouver is hosting a

writer's festival showea:

ing works by new and
ablished authors from
w. 7 through 11.

will bo he

Rothiston

Jewish Coaunamts € ony
Openmig might uyhets oo
STQ) Lo purine vail
ADEE Af other events are
or by donation

SUT: Worksbor

Misa, ‘Nas
Rothstom Pheat
dist
730 pum, Jewish Rook Fair
openmg might dings.
rvccthag, ite muste featur

fe Loronto’s Mart Cohen
and Rati Agon, Victoria's
David Kacts, Rick Kool and
Candwen Irvine and
Vancouver's Cecil t dershiler
and Myrna Rabinowits. Wii
and cheese reception,
WSun., Nov. & ar fewrsh
Community Centre, 950 West
4st.
10:30 am. Pb pam. Young
authers’ tea enticed by teen
comeshan Seth Rogen
14:30 am. 4:30 pam. Book
signings.
11:30 ami. 2:30 p.m.
Children’s activities.

Tat Norman
“ORD West

t Band
treading and book launch?
2 p.m. Poetic Journeys: Lillian

Kaplinski, Philip: Resnick and
Renee Radin.

va Shuiraand MM

@Wlucw Nea bo
Con ”
thst

yin Wore

Jenni

1 YADAVG

“pam fusbth Bauran rea

many new & excil ing styles
“ineluding uphaistery mattresses anda cessoties

Omir

Toroftia departures, Eitt

Exerc)