“everything in between, from apple |.

CUISINE SCENE

WEST. |. VANCOUVER’S
Tools*-and Techniques
cooking store will. host a
cooking class that I recently
previewed at’ Vancouver’s
acclaimed  Dubrulle French
Culinary School. And I
‘have to say — sign up now!
_The class is a knockout.

_ Tools owner Cindy Evetts was
quick to snap up Chef Olivier An-
dreini. for.a guest stint at her
cooking schcol, held evenings
right in the store.

It’s .a- great setting (I might

add), amid her dazzling array of '

,cookware. in gleaming stainless,
pristine porcelain, and warm cop-
per. ;
And:'there seems .to be

corers to zesters. :
Andreini’s class is next Wednes-
day evening, Nov. 10, at 7.p.m.
Phone 925-1835 for reservations.
», It’s a.great evening of. cooking
with Andreini,: recipes, wines to
match the generous tastings. Food
for thought, I'd say.
Chef Andreini is the executive
- chef instructor over at Dubrulle,
‘expertly leading: students inte the

# culinary world.

‘I

_“'He recently returned from Los
‘Angeles, where he did a guest
cooking stint at the city’s hottest
restaurant — Joachim Splichal’s
Patina on Melrose.

He came back to Vancouver
‘bursting with great new ideas and
presentations. And that’s what
this class is all about.

He (simply) wowed those of us

4 lucky enough to have previewed

the first class.

To whet your appetite a bit,
here are a few notes on the class
you can attend.

. Swiss-born Andreini is a dream
‘to observe at work.

Moving with the deft and sure
grace of a ballet dancer, he seem-
ingly glides through the kitchen.

. Nary a drop spilled or a sauce
splashed. Never a wasted motion.

And all the while, tips gained
from years of training are gener-
ously shared along the way: .
On. vanilla beans: ‘‘They should
be soft and pliable (he wraps one
around his finger), or don’t buy
‘them.

“All the. flavors are inside, in
those tiny ball-bearings. Scrape
‘them out like this, with the flat of
the knife (demonstration).”’

On beurre blanc: “If your sauce
‘ever thickens too much, add a tiny
bit of hot water to bring it right
back to the consistency you
want.’’ (It worked.)

Gnu sugar and egg yotks: ‘‘They
don’t like each other at all! The
sugar cooks the yolks if allowed to
sit together in a bowl. So mix
them together the minute you join
them ... then answer the phone!”’
On chocolate: ‘‘Water is the
enemy of chocolate. One miniscule

droplet can seize the chacoliate up
in a second.""

On garlic: “Always split each
clove, and remove the green centre
core. It is the strongest (not the
nicest) part of the garlic.”

On capers: “Purchase the medium
size (cheaper) rather than the
super-fine size, Same taste, same
flavor ... especially if you're going
to chop them in a dressing.”

“A pinch’’: ‘‘When a recipe says
‘a pinch,’ it means two fingers
full. A ‘large pinch’ means three
fingers full.”

(i never knew
Chef.)

This wisdom is passed along as
the cooking steps are demon-
strated.

Never forced or programmed,
they flow from a chef who knows
his stuff.

And what did we sample that
evening? Oh, things like an open
ravioli of poppy seed pasta with
prawns, caramelized turnips with a
watercress beurre blanc.

Next up (and he wiil repeat this
at the Tools class!) was Patina’s
movie star salad.

A Caesar like no other. A
Madonnaesque stunner with all
the stops pulled out. Sign up —
just for the salad!

Next Andreini demonstrated a
dish recently served at the Sum-
merhill. Jazz. Brunch at the
Okanagan Wine Festival (to
raves).

The grand finale was sheer de-
cadence in the form of a silken
valrhona (the Rolex of chocolates)
chocolate creme brulee, served in
oversized shallow soup bowls,
Patina style.

To demonstrate the passion of
his students, one man attending
had a wife’ ready to go into labor
at any moment with their first
child.

His loving excuse was that he
did all the cooking in the house-
hold, and that ‘‘priorities were
priorities.”’

(Not to worry — he sailed
through. the class with no phone
call to hospital.)

Catching these super chefs at
local cooking classes, in person, is
a rare treat. Don't miss out.

In the meantime, here are some
of Andreini’s recipes to try out.

CAESAR SALAD

.  PATINA-STYLE
This show-stopping presentation
sets the familiar Caesar apart

from all others.

Crisp romaine leaves are set in-
side a crouton ‘“box,’’ standing
upright ‘flower pot’’ style. Serves

that. Thanks,

EXECUTIVE CHEF Instructor Olivier Andreini of the Dubrulle

Wednesday, Nove

mber

i

PACT SE ORE PEER

3, 1993 - North Shore News - 4

Box

NEWS photo Nell Lucente

French Culinary School teaches a

class called ‘L.A. Style'’ following a recent stint at Patina, Los Angeles’ hottest restaurant. You
can catch the class at West Van's Tools and Techniques cooking store.

4,

1 large head remaine lettuce,
washed and crisped (leaves left
whole) :
1 loaf brioche (or firm white)
bread, unsliced

2 Tbsp. (30 mL) capers

2 Tbsp. (30 mL) Parmesan cheese,
grated

2 Tbsp. (30 mL) minced fresh
parsley

Olive oil.

Prepare the dressing (recipe
follows) and set aside.

Carefully slice crusts from bread
loaf. Slice four 14” thick (4 cm)
slices.

Cut each slice into a rectangular
block, 3°’°X 5°? (8 X 12cm). .

Using tip of a sharp knife, cu
out centre of each block. Push
centre through (save for another
use).

Brush
“boxes’’
sides.

Oven toast the breads in a
shallow pan in a 400°F (200°C)
oven until deep golden brown all
over,

Remove from oven, and set on
a wire rack to crisp (up to 30
minutes).

To assemble each salad, place
one crouton ‘‘box’’ on each over-
sized plate.

the hollow bread
with olive oil on all

Edgemont
Gourmet Meats

- Purveyors of...

ALBERTA GRAIN-FED BEEF
ORGANIC BEEF ¥ FREE-RANGE EGGS
MEDICATION-FREE CHICKEN
MARYSVILLE PIES ¥ GOURMET PASTA
N.A. WINES ¥ AVALON MILK ¥
HOMEMADIE ADDITIVE-PREE SAUSAGE

Come & Injoy Personal Village Attention
IN EDGEMONT VILLAGE
3109 Edgemont Boulevard
N. Vancouver, B.C. (Tue-Sar) ‘Vel: 988-6328

Stand several romaine leaves
upright in centre of bread.

Drizzle some dressing over tops
of leaves, allowing it to flow down

greens. Drizzle. some dressing

EDGEMONT BLVD.

quantities. Prices

around plate, as well.

Dot plates with capers,
Parmesan over the leaves, and
parsley scattered around salad and
on edge of plate. Serve.

Edgemont Village, North Van :

983-8330

Ample
parking
&

customer