Everchanging Victoria David Wishart if aa THE couple at the next table at the B & B was from Kansas. The golfing father and son were from Calgary. In three days I met nobody from Vancouver. And it got me thinking that Victoria and Australia have something in common: the so- called “tyranny of distance” which discourages travellers from going Down Under makes Vancouverites overlook Victoria because it is so close. Yet Victoria is so easy to - get to, with two seaplane companies new on the route, a helicopter service currently celebrating 10 years’ service and good old BC Ferries. We rode the Spirit of Vancouver tsland beside an English tourist who was mightily impressed at the low fares on the ferry, the frequency, com- fort and the food on board. Go to Europe, he said, and it’s five or six times the price for ~- asimilar journey. Like Victoria, BC Ferries is ken for granted. On the return trip we . Passed a restaurant with a sign “Caution — ferry food ahead!" Yet the inexpensive buffet on board had whole- some food and the window tables offered majestic views ‘to rival anything you'd see on an Alaska cruise ship. I never tire of Victoria because it’s always changing. The Empress Hotel, for exam- ple, is showing off its new Entree Gold floor with sepa- rate check-in, concierge, and lounge for breakfast and evening Snacks. Rooms come with a harbor view and things [like such as windows that open and overhead fans. Don’t miss the Empress dining room, where the set- ting, service and simply terrif- ic food make for the best night out in Victoria. Try the salmon coated with a layer of mashed potato, surrender to the dessert trolley, and end up with a glass of port and a thought for the hotel architect, Francis Rattenbury, murdered by his wife's lover. Victoria, of course, has other places to eat, with fish ‘n’ chips so prevalent that one is reminded of the English resort of Blackpool — whose beachfront was once described as an assault and .vinegar course. The next night we drove to Sooke Harbour House, in the evening sun more enchanting than ever. The garden soil creaked with a vivid harvest of vegetables, herbs and flow- ers destined for the pot and the table, and to hold the menu is an experience like opening a new book by a favorite author. Everything trom the open- ing bread, with a trace of fen- nel, to the house wine, bottled near Duncan, to the pear dessert was a work of art, and the presentation was a series of exquisite palettes. Yet it was natural in every possible way, from the prod- ucts to the nine o'clock light- ing of the candles in the two ~ big chandeliers. Good eating requires exer- cise, and Victoria is made for walking. Golf is easy to find these days, two very accessible courses being Cordova Bay and Olympic View, Both are about $40, a pleasure to play and don’t require power carts. Cheaper digs are also available, such as the Qak Bay Guest House -—— in fact the only B & B in Oak Bay and a handsome 1912 house in the capable hands of Karl and Jacky Morris, who will provide a comfortable room from $79 and a delicious, cooked breakfast served at a table overlooking the garden. Pity that the local newspa- per, the Times-Colonist, is such a thin, bland read — it can be digested almost as quickly as the orange juice. ‘Too bad also considering one of its founders was the eccen- tric Amar de Cosnios —" “over of the universe” — although bom William Smith. However Karl, like many a B & B proprietor, has a story or two to tell, such as the one about how he went to Australia on a tv-o-year work- ing vacation and stayed for The couple from Kansas said they hated to leave, but they had only five days to explore Vancouver Island, the Photo submitted THE Oak Bay Guest House, cperated by Karl and Jacky Morris, offers a comfortable room fram $79 and a_ delicious, cooked breakfast served overlooking the garden. Oregon coast and northern California. No, they wouldn't be going to Vancouver. Too far, the man said. Prices too Hot to dvertise One Week only June 24 to June 30/96 Princess Cruises Sale applies to new bookings only Before you even step aboard, benefit from BCAA's 42 years experience in the travel industry. Take advantage of some of our best cruising prices so far this year, You won't be disappointed, Find out how you can cruise with the best for less! 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