pasics shape
menswear trends for fall

STRAIGHT IS the key word in the world of men’s fashion this

fall. Gone is grunge and its slouchy
expressiveness. What's left is a

“I'm nobody special”

conservative, back-to-the-basics

approach to clothes that emphasizes a blend of old-world basic

decency and modern glamor.
By Robert Galster
Contributing Writer

Dorottya Willett of Park Royal's
Trevenen Apparel calls it sophisti-

SUSPENDERS ARE backi

Here they join striped and
geometric-patterned ties from
_ Dunn's Tailors.

“The more conservative one
dresses. the more fashionable one
leoks. This is the new conser-
vatism because the fabrics are so
different.”

These include both silks
y and flannels as well as sea-
Y washed polyesters which resem-
ble silk.
In formal wear the throwback
to the "40s style translates to a
single-breasted, two or three but-
ton jacket featuring a thin sil-
houetic. The heavily padded,
inverted triangle look has
given way to a classic,
straight formal featuring a
longer, finger tip length
cut.

Pant design is also
undergoing a quict retooling.
The straight jacket design is
matched here with a departure
from the hereto preferred fitted
look by totally eliminating pleats.
The result is a straight. cigarette
cut which emphasizes a long,

straight silhouette.

Meanwhile, tie lengths and
widths remain unchanged with
only the patterns and designs
undergoing a workover.

“No more flowers and no more
Loony Tunes characters,” says
Willett with some relie! “Forget
it.”

All this may add up to seme-
thing akin to a grunge hangover.
Or a feeling of spending too much
time froning one’s wardrobe
instead of wearing it.

The subdued spirit of this
year’s ciothes may also leave
behind a pit of lost individual
expression.

Not to worry though, as the
designers did not drain every drop
of individualism out of this year's
crop of styles.

Where in recent years a shirt or
jacket would serve as the color-
clash outlet, today it has been rele-
gated to the supporting cast-socks
and suspenders.

Yes, suspenders are back and
beautiful.

“Suspenders are back and sell-
ing this year because they re not
boring anymore,” says Willett.
“They are the only wild things
I've seen this year other than
socks.”

The taming of the shrew in all
of us also extends to casual wear.
While for some of us that trans-

lates to a wardrobe of 20 sets of

outfits relegated to camping and
housecleaning duty, it affords
most of us a chance to reintroduce
classical style back into our relax-
ing moments.

NEWS photo Cindy Goedinan’

MENSWEAR TAKES a conservative approach to fail. Taupe
and cream roll-neck sweater and brushed cotton pant, botin
J.J. Farmer; available at The Mensroom.