COPENHAGEN IS’ one of those se ies where you ean’ * h ip but feel like. you’ve lived there before. _ . é swarthy. old queen of the sea...’ oe or, better yet, blame.the builders... of thé. eternal: Tivoli Gardens, the’ granddaddy’ of - Disneylands, ore if none of ; i “b openhagen has: in: her: histo: decided, : wisely I think, to. preserve. the city like a: ship ina bottle, as it were. : | That is, except for a cou- ple of modern hotels built by Scandinavian Airline System “(SAS) and the intrusion of _ Several , Mc Donald's restau- “rants: tthe Golden’ "Arches re- ‘it is nearly impossible te te tear. any existing structure down ‘or even, for that matter, to ~ the ‘exterior; color, - alter schemes, instali skylights or replace ancient or near-an- cient window frames. In the -suburbs, it’s different, and - ‘there are outlying industrial areas where the factories are . ‘indistinguishable from fac- tories anywhere else in? the ~ Pthe heart of. as been frozen. in time;.a kindof: fairy-tale® *. city that would still be large-, -