The art of the alder grill

From page 28

~ can be noisy on a busy aight,
but that’s part of the ambi-
ence.
*.. And whatr’s delivered on
. the plate continues to do the
emerging, brilliance of
Vancouver’s West Coast cui-
sinc proud.

Atkinson’s kitchen is only

im: partally visible from the main

dining room via a steam-cov-

B . ered corner window, which is

j too bad. Watching the flash
:/and fire of a busy kitchen in
4. action is good stimulus for the
: gastric juices. But that’s an
: esthetic quibble.
"Its creativity, with seafood
= especially, continues to be sin-
gularly impressive.
The Salmnon House menu
incorporates influences and
gredients from around the
Pacific Rim, with Mexico and
the Southwestern United
States playing prominent roles
in shaping Salmon House cui-

aldergrilling to an art.
8. House grill specialties
range from a mixed seafood
~ platter of Fanny Bay oysters,

¥ prawns and salmon (with

“white wine, mustard and spicy
capicolli cream) to Pacific sea
bass (served with spiced

* Okanagan peach butter and a

‘shredded yam and beet pan-

cake, known ir haute cuisine
circles as a gallette).

Other main course entrees
inciude Fraser Valley veal
chop, Baby Arctic char with
roasted cashews and orange
teriyaki vinaigrette; and
Grilled Washington state New
York steak with oven roasted
garlic, blue cheese profiterole
and demi glace.

Nightly fresh sheets —
complete with suggested wine
selections — add another
dimension to the Salmon
House repertoire.

Entrees are not cheap.
They go for $14 on up to
$20, but you get what yo::
pay for.

Diners with aversions to
big-ticket entrees need go no

’ further than the Safnan House

appetizer selection ($5 to
$11).

Start, for example, with a
Salmon House sampler of
aldergrilled and smoked
salmon. It comes with chut-
neys, relishes, salsas, roulade,
chipotle and salmon cream
cheese. All for $10.95.

Or get a plate of Baby
back ribs with Wild West bar-
becue sauce and bourbon
molasses baked beans ($7.95).

Better still try the
Dungeness Crab appetizer. It
features fresh crab meat in a
small bowl of cheddar and asi-
ago dip that is enlivened with

wne'and:

green chilies and lime aioli.

Table Hopping’s order
came with an excellent assors-
ment of homemade chips:
brilliant scarlet beet, purple
corn; deep vellow Yucca and
Tarot root. All deep-fried and
wafer thin. Great dipping
tools.

Main entrees were similarly
impressive.

The prawns were sautced
in a rich sundried tomato
sauce. Adding to its complexi-
ty were fresh lemon and a
robust roasted garlic pesto.

Elsewhere on the plate
were rice and a saute of juli-
enne carrots, red cabbage, bok
choy and red and green bell
eppers. .

The ‘black cod, meanwhile,
came with a mild wasabi
(Japanese horseradish) cream
and balsamic, mustard seed
vinaigrette. A wonderful com-
bination that did justice to
what is one of B.C.’s best, but
most misused, eating fish.

The Salmon House’s wine
list is extensive ($20 to $60
and beyond) with strong rep-
resentation from B.C.,
California and the rest of the
Pacific Northwest.

The restaurant also features
many wines by the glass and
half bottle, both on the regu-
Jar wine list and the nightly
Salmon House fresh sheet

“BEST THAI FOOD IN TOWN"
North Shore News Fleaders Choice ‘96 Awards

Service from the restau-
rant’s fleet of waiters is brisk,
though not without person-
able tableside manner. Serving
staff bring a broad knowledge
of Sabnon House products and
its Northwest Coast cuisine to
the table. Ask and ye shall
receive.

A night atop the town: a
recommended high aitirude
adjustment for body and soul.

ia ay pe

FOR RESERVATIONS

921-8163

B 5 min, from Horseshoe Bay on Sea to Sky Hwy.

The Seven Seas
Restaurant Presents

a
LW sic
Tuesday-Saturday
in the Portside Room
Wednesdays
Open Stage

Friday March 7th
Helen & Gone

Saturday Ma March 8th

Every Tuesday
Knutsea Greenhouse Effect

Wednesday, March 5, 1997 — North Shore News - 29

[Flavour of India

Authentic Indian Gourmet Cuisine

DINNER 2 for 1

Tues.-Thur. Excluding Tandoori dishes. Expires Mar. i 197

‘Open 7 Days a Week 985.5477
Hours Tues - Sat 5-10pm, Sun & Mon 5-Spm

Fish & Chips |
& Bottomless Pop
Every Sunday 12 ngoa - 7:30pm and -
Every Tuesday 11:30am - 7:30pm . a
C-Lovers North Vancouver only

[torneo eben Behind Sh «Not wali wt ‘ ny ott

or

Poi value $14. 00.

gitthe,
“Nat valid’ Valentiée’s bey:
Mother's Day or New Years Eve.
One coupon per group, no
separate cheques. Hf you
have two or more items
from our bar, desert or

appetizer menu, we will:

cordially invite you and
your guest to enjoy a
complimentary entree when
a second entree of equal or
greater value Is purchased.
Dine in only.

ive MEXICAN ENTERTAINMENT
RESERVATIONS RECOMMENDED AT 985-TACO
1200 Lonsdale, I North, Vancouver

Used to be

:
elms sauces Uae

please present coupon fo server at time of ordering
‘not valid with any other coupon or promotion

: offer expires March 18th, 1997
2 . 3650 Capilano Rd., North Vancouver, 987-3388

Only Beautyrest’
Pocket Coils

Respond SIMMONS"

The Do-Not-Disturb Mattress

STM Senaune | P inc.
‘Used under hcence by Senmons Canede tac.

iad COLONY

HOME FURNISHINGS
1075 Roosevelt Crescent .
North Vancouver
2 blocks behind Avalon Hotel)
Open Daily Fri, 9-9, Sun. 12-4

985-8738

/ DELIVERY
“REMOVAL OF
OLD SET

brunch was boring,
bland and basic.

@)@)
en

We've changed
all that.

Brunch
Saturdays & Sundays, 10-2pm

West Vancouver
{5th & Bellevue, 922-1117

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