‘Key city’

of Port

PROGRESS, OR what passes for it, has often played dirty
tricks on history. When the settlers began flocking west to
the Pacific coast of North America, they settled in places
that should have become today’s large cities. Instezd, some
quirk of fate left many of them behind.

One of these towns is Port
-Townsend. Settlement of Port
Townsend began in the 1850s.

- Its lovely harbor is at the gate-
way to Puget Sound and logically,
_it should have grown and pros-
pered into the city that Seattle
“became.

-"" Back-then, it was referred to as
- the “Key City.’ The port thrived

and merchants built wonderful

"brick and stone business centres

“along Water Street.
. On the hill overlooking the har-
“: bor, mansions were built with
‘ sweeping grounds and killer views.
. By 1880, 7,000 people lived in the
residential areas above the port.
_ The waterfront teemed with
. Sailing ships and a full quota of
.: Saloons and brothels to entertain
“the seamen. -
It was so ‘‘colorful’’ that a new
“‘downtown”’ was built — up-
- town, above the port so that re-

‘1. $pectable housewives could do’

_their shopping without tripping

- over drunks and hookers.
= The balioon burst in 1890 when
Port Townsend failed in its bid to
become the terminus for the
-Northera. Pacific Railway.

|. .Commerce! died and so did the
“town. im

“The seaport ‘cities along the

coast that succeeded went 0 on to
modernize.

arbara ;
MeGreadie

TRAVELWISE

Eventually, the majority of the
fine old buildings were torn down
to make way for glass-fronted
highrises.

A combination of poverty and
neglect saved the Victorian ar-
chitecture of Port Townsend until
the middle of this century when
historians recognized its value and
took steps to preserve it.

* Today, Port Townsend is a na-
tionally recognized historical

- district.

The old office buildings along
Water Street have been restored

V travel talk focuses

on experimental trips

“ FORGET SUN, sea and sand, ly-
“- ing comatose by pools by.day “and

“in loud-and smoky clubs by night.

and calling that-a vacation. -
-Forget. all vacations where you
ome back “home no. richer ‘than
ou left.’ . n
(infact,

eturn considerably poorer.)

Now . there’s “another to’ make -

acations: rewarding, ‘
ife-enriching | and fun...
- That ‘way. is: ‘*Adventure Travel
and Ecotourism,”’” and’ on: Satur-
day;:Aug. 21, 10:30 a.m. to noon
at. West: Vancouver’ s Silk Purse

‘exciting,

* Art ‘and Cultural Centre, ‘tourism -
‘use’ ’ consultant ‘Clive.

‘and’ land
Calloway. will, open you to. “‘e
perimental”? vacations:

*Calloway,. who is also an. out-
“door: -recreation leader, has. a
“masters degree in: environmental

design. and is: co-founder: of the |

Canadian: Spirit. of Ecotourism
Cooperative. -

Canadian Spirit i is a cooperative
f': like-minded. resort . owners,
wiiderness guides, theatre groups,
native: Indian’. bands, hostels and
“artisans \ across’ .Western Canada
‘who offer’ travellers memorable

nsidering the cost of
hotels these: days,: you'll probably ©
s just having “really exciting mo-

and. meaningful life experiences,

not your usual vacation.
Says Calloway, ‘‘We’re on the

‘leading-edge of. a major shift in

tourism trends, and interest, of

‘people. wanting to beyond sun, sea

and sand to a much, much richer
experience.” :
This:: can involve learning, or

ments.”’

Ecotourism combines
multiculturalism, recreational
diversity and environmental con-
servation to give you a vacation
you'll never forget.

‘So plan your next vacation with
Clive Calloway at the Silk Purse,

~ 1870 Argyle Ave. in’ West Van-

couver on Saturday, Aug.. 21 at
10:30 a.m;
Admission is $10 preregistered,
or $12 at the door. Cost includes
tea or coffee and GST.

Early * registration is
mended as space is limited.

The lecture, sponsored by West
Vancouver Parks & Recreation
Department Cultural Services, is
part of Speakers Uniimited.

For information and registration
call West Vancouver Recreation
Centre at 925-3266.

recom-

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TRAVEL

ownsend

and turned into shops and re-
staurants,

Almost all of the Victorian
homes above the port are private
residences, although some have
become bed-and-breakfast inns.

A few of these are open to the
public for tours a few hours daily.

One, the Rothschild house, is
Washington’s smallest state park
and is open to the public daily.

This home is a must-see for
anyone interested in history.
Unlike many old homes, it stayed
in the same family from the day it
was built until it was deeded to
the State of Washington.

The furnishings are original and
nothing has been done to alter the
original architecture except
replacing the kitchen wallpaper.
The rest of the place is as it was.

Rothschild House .was lived in
by the daughter of the original

owner until her death in the 1950s.

She willed it to her brother, who
gave it to the state.

At least once a year, many of
the homes are open to view. The
last tour was in the spring.

I'll try to find out when the
next one will be held — we’re
anxious to visit then, too.

Meanwhile, it’s interesting just
driving through the residential
area.

You can drive to Port Town-
send, up the Oiympic Peninsula
from Seattle or, as we did, you
can take a short ferry ride from
Whidbey Island.

Take Highway 20 from the 1-5
towards Anacortes branching
towards Oak Harbor. The ferry
leaves from Keystone, just south
of Coupeville. All is well marked.

The ferry leaves every 45
minutes from about 7 a.m. until
10 at night. The ride is 30 minutes
and it cost $9.95 each way for the
two of us and the ‘‘darn fine-
lookin’ rig.””

The boats can accommodate
even the largest condominiums-
on-wheels. ;

If you decide to stay overnight,
you. have a choice of modern
motels or going Victorian.

a

44 The port thrived and merchants
built wonderful brick and stone
business centres along
Water Street. 99

The Manresa Castle is a 40-
room Victorian Inn (1-800-732-
1281). Downtown, try Bishop
Victorian (206-385-6753) or the
Water Street Hotel (206-385-
5467).

There are many smaller B&Bs
— The Old Consulate Inn looks
charming (206-385-6753).

Unfortunately, | can’t per-
sonally recommend any of the
stopovers as we only spent the
day.

If you are boating, there are
two marinas: Boat Haven and
Point Hudson — full facilities,
1-800-826-3854.

For goifers, the famous Port
Ludlow course is just 3 few miles
south.

Brian would have loved to play
it but that’s what he gets for
travelling with a dud like me.

My guess is that it’s expensive
and busy, so reserve a week or so
in advance: 1-800-732-1239.

The Port Townsend Athletic
Club has a full range of courts
and one luxury suite. You’re also
on your own with that one: (206)
385-6560.

If you'd like a free Olympic
catalog, write to Olympic
Publishing, 7450 Oak Bay, Port
Ludlow, WA 98365.

If you are driving to the ferry
terminal! at Keystone, take an hour

out and stop by Coupeville. It’s
on Highway 20 and the old district
is just a few blocks off the high-
way (well marked)...
' . This, too, is one of those little
towns that progress bypassed.

Somehow, the original water- :

Choices

Lions Gate Crossing Public Involvement Program

LIONS GATE CROSSING
PUBLIC INFORMATION CENTRE

An Information Centre has been opened by the
Ministry of Transportation and Highways to provide for:
public input into the future of the Lions Gate Crossing.

Part of an extensive public involvement process, the
Information Centre includes large scale display boards
highlighting the many considerations which must be
evaluated before a realistic choice can be made.

Commenis or suggestions can be recorded in writing at
the Information Centre and these will be evaluated as

part of the process.”

OPEN 8 A.M. TO 6 P.M.
MONDAY TO FRIDAY

“LIONS GATE CROSSING—PUBLIC INFORMATION CENTRE
Suite 330, 900 Howe Street
(Corner of Howe and Smithe Streets, Dawntoven Vancouver)
Phone 683-0360

swig

Province of
British Columbia

Ministry of Transportation

and Highways

front was almost entirely saved
from the wreckers and the little
buildings are all in working order.

Unlike Port Townsend,
Coupeville was a village and the
buildings were wood, many with
false fronts. .

Today, it's a sleepy little
backwater of artsy-craftsy shops
aud smail restaurants,

If you’re a cat lover, drop into
the little liquor store. The owner's
cat lives in the window..He’s a big
ginger persian who likes car rubs. |.

The shops are fairly predictable
but the buildings are worth the
stop. Each has a plaque with the.”
date and original ownership noted.

It, too, isa rational historic’
district.

And just a note about
Anacortes: that huge fire on the.

. dock (last week) was Publicize on:

the TV and radio... .. :
All is well and, as the old-timer
at the Texaco remarked, “Ito.
wasn't near as bad a the FV made.
it out.’” : ‘
We stayed at the State Park
Campsite in Anacortes — $12,
electricity and water, no sewers’ © :
but a dumping station at the gate.
We didn’t have a reservation.
but had no trouble getting a spot
even on the August long weekend.
This campsite is really in the
woods — I needed the i interior
lights at 5p. m,. .

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