Lamb dishes Jett Smith MEN AND women have eaten lamb for thousands and thousands of years. ‘ Sheep bones have been found in the caves Peking man inhabited half a million years ago, although domestication of the sheep proba- biy did not begin uniil about 12,000 years ago. The first hard evidence of. sheep-raising dates from 8920 BC in Iraq and Romania, and sheep appear to have been raised in prehistoric China on the Loess plateau, a region where the an- cient winds have deposited rich soils. italy and Greece still have their own ancient traditions of eating larab. Lamb was raised in Greece from_ prehistoric times and re- mains the favorite meat of its people. ‘Lamb in the Roman kitchen has always been impostant. To this day the Romans claim they have the best pastureland in italy, and _ thus the best lamb. J shall not | argue, Every part’ of the animal is celebrated in the Eternal City, and the innards seem to have. an ‘especially high place in the celc- bration. The Chinese, 1 suspect, were the first to coupic lamb with its best seasoning, garlic. — I wish North Americans would stop overcooking lamb so that it could be enjoyed more in our culture. We still seem to be suf- fering from the argument common in the Old West. It was the cat- tleman against the sheephercer. Lamb is, I believe, the finest of : the red meats. “WONGOLIAN LAMB (Serves 6 as partof . _ aChinese meal) Great grills are used for this dish in famous Mongolian restau- rants in China. You may want to use a tabletop grill of some sort and cook this at the table in front . of your guests. _- think the dish is just fine straight from the kitchen wok. it is rich! 3 pound lean, boneless lamb sneulder, sliced thin in 1-inch- wide sidos MARINADE 2 tablespoons oyster suuce 3 green oniows, chopped THE FRUGAL GOURMET 1 tablespoon chili sauce Freshly ground tlack pepper to taste (I tike lots) FOR CHOWING (STIR- FRYING) . 2 tablespoons peanut oil ¥% teaspoon salt 3 claves gariic, diced fine GARNISH 2 cups iceberg letiuce, skredded as for tacos 3 green onions, chopped t tablespoon sesame oil I often freeze the lamb just a bit so i can slice it very thin. Mix the marinade and soak the meat in same for 30 minutes. Heat a wok and add the oil, salt , and garlic. Chow just until the garlic begins to change color, then add half of the marinated meat. Chow. over very high heat until done to your taste. Remove to a warm plate and chow the second half. Serve over the lettuce and add the onicn and sesame oil garnish. ROAST LAMB, GREEK STYLE (Serves 4-6) Nothing can equal the scent of a jamb roasting in the back streets of a Greek village. i have added a bit of olive oil to keep this roast moist, but you would not have to do this with a whole iamb. 15-6 pound leg of lamb VY cup ollie: oi 3 cloves garlic, crashed i teaspoon whole oregano, crush- ed by hand . Salt snd freshly ground olack pepper to taste For rare lamb: Allow the lamb to come to room temperature. Heat your oven to 400°F. Mix the oil, garlic and oregano together and rub the leg complete- ly. Season with salt and pepper and place op baking rack in a pan. Insert a meat thermometer in the thickest part of the leg, being careful not to touch the bone. Bake at 400°F for 40 minutes so the meat can brown. Turn the oven down to 325°F and bake for an additional! 40 to 50 minutes, or unti! the thermometer registers at 140°F, Remove the meat from the oven and allow it to sit a talf hour be- fore sticing. It wil] continue to cook during this time. For medium lamb: Follow the ahove instructions but cook a bit longer so that the thermometer registers at 145° to I50°F. Slice thin and serve with some of the pan juices. SOUVLAKI (Makes & sandwiches) This is an old. Athenian dish that will make you wonder about who invented the first takeout food. These lamb-laden skewers are for sale all over the major Greek cities, and the flavor is made even more exciting by the grilled bread with the yogurt dripping down the sides. 2 pounds lean lamb, cut into 1- inch square cubes MARINADE Y% cup olive oi} 1 cup red wire I teaspeon salt Freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 tesspoon oregano 1 tesspoon whole dried mint, crushed by. hand 3 cloves garlic, crashed 8 loeves pita bread with obive oil, grilled GARNISHES Purple anions, sliced paper thin Tomsives, ripe aad sliced thin Piain yogurt Marinate cubes of meat in a large bowl. Mix tvo or three times during a two-hour period, Place on wooden skewers and broil, turning once, until tender but still a bit pink on the inside. Serve in a griiled pita loaf with anions, tomatoes and yogurt on top. Note: This dish is also great with pork. SPICY CAJUN beef stir-fry has just enough heat to wake up winter-weary palates. Canned vegetable recipes save time in the kitchen LET CONVENIENCE be your guide .to satisfying and delicious suppers. Open the cupboards, check the refrigerator and chances are the ingredients for fast, nutritious meals are all there. Convenient and economical, canned vegetables answer the quest for saving time and steps in the kitchen. They're ready to go without cleaning, chopping, or cooking. In addition to their nutritive value, canned vegetables are a good source of dietary fibre. In celebration of Canned Vegetable Month in January, here is a quick and delicious supper idea from the Canned’ Food Council. What _ better. time to savor favorite summer vegetables, tastefully preserved for use all year fong. : For a free recipe booklet write to; The Canned Food Council, 77 Bloor St. West, Suite 1903, Toronto, Ont. MSS 1M2, SPICY CAJUN BEEF STIR- FRY (Serves 4) 2 thsp (36 mL) vegetable oil, divided 1 ib (500 g) lean beef steak (ftank, sirioin) cut inte thin strips . t medium onion, lengthwise aad sliced 1 cup (250 mL) chopped green and red peppers . 1 tsp (5 mL) dried thyme leaves 1 tsp (5 mL) dried marjoram | leaves Y% tsp (2 mL) crushed red pep- per (may be increased to taste) 1 12-0z. (341 mL) can whole kernel corn, drained - Ys cup (75 mL) beef broth or. water 2 thsp (5 mL) red wine vinegar 1 tsp (5 mL) cornstarch - 4 cups (1 L) shredded cabbage or lettuce In large frying pan, heat !° tbsp (15 mL) oil over medi- — um-high heat. Saute beef strips until browned, about 3 halved ’ minutes. Remove from pan and wipe out pan. Heat remaining oi! in pas over medium heat. Saute onion, peppers, thyme, mar- joram and crushed red pepper about 5S minutes or until, tender. Combine beef broth, vinegar and cornstarch. Stir in- to pan with beef and corn. Cook until lightly thickened. Serve over cabbage or -let- tuce. . Preparation Time: 12 zainutes Cooking Time: 10 minutes Milk: variations on a nearly perfect food inquisitive Cook SUE WILSON ANNE | GARDINER MILK HAS been called mature’s nearly perfect food. Nowadays, we’re even building variety into perfection. By altering the proportion of milk solids suspended in water, modern pro- cessing has given us condensed, skim, evaporated and powdered milk. The ‘‘sofids’’ in milk are pro- teins, sugar (lactose), minerals, vitamins, trace nutrients and fat. Though we can’t see or feel them, they give milk body and nutri- tional value. The fat, sometimes called but- terfat, comes in farge globules which aren’t as dense as milk itself. If left to stand, fat rises leisurely to the top of fresh miik to form a thick layer of cream. Today, however, it’s likely that cream is separated from milk by passing it through the spinning disks of centrifugal separators. It's then, recombined with skim milk according to the desired fat content. Low-fat milk varies from less than 0.5% fat (skim milk) to 1% to 2% fat. Whole milk con- tains roughly 4% fat; coffee cream or ‘‘half-and-half,”’ at feast 18%. The term half-and- half means this milk is half way between milk and cream in butter- fat content. Whipping cream, the richest of all, is 39% to 36% butterfat. When beaten with air the fat enables it to hold its shape as a soft billow of solids. Once skim milk is mixed with the desired amount: of fat, homogenization prevents fat from scparating from the liquid. Under high pressure, milk is forced through tiny holes onto a hard surface. This divides fat globules into tiny Groplets which remain dispersed throughout the miik simply because they’re too small to rise to the surface on their own. And they’re too widely dispersed to aggregate into larger particles. You'll notice that milk with a high fat content is thicker and more opaque than skim miik. When most of the fat is removed from milk, fight passes through easily, making it slrost translu- cent. Buttermilk, traditionally. the whey remaining after milk has been churned into butter, is now most often made by adding special strains of bacteria to low-fat milk. The bacteria converts milk sugar into lactic acid, which pro- duces the smooth, tart, cultured product well known for its role in leavening biscuits and pancakes. Because of its acidity, buttermilk is also popular as a tangy base for soups, salad dressings, and marinades. Evaporated and condensed milk contain roughly double the milk solids of regular milk, since half to 60% of their water is removed during the processing. The high temperature of canning affects the milk sugar, producing a cream: color and slightly caramel flavo- in evaporated milk. Condensx' milk is heavily sweetened for use in desserts. Its high sugar content also prevents spoilage. Powdered miik results when all but 4% or 5% of the moisture is removed. Milk solids are collected and instantized into tiny clumps which dissolve easily when mixed with water,