Cruising ltalian-style THE last night on a cruise ship tends to be a bit of a let-down: bags packed, passen- gers go for dinner wearing the clothes they will be travelling in the next day. Nor on the Costa Victoria they didn’t. This was toga night! The vast majority of the 1,900 souls on board draped themselves in bedsheets and made an entrance at cocktail hour then trooped off to dinner in regalia the likes of which have not been seen since Nero’s last night on the fiddle, There were some amaz- ing sights, such as the man from Kelowna sporting a cowboy hat with oak leaves on the brim, while cruise director Nick Weir, a tower- ing 6’6” in sandals, strode the deck like Caesar. Women were boldly imaginative, many turning a simple bedsheet into a fetch- ing fashion garment. And although it never got as wicked as Roman nights at Hedonism II in Jamaica, the party truly went with a swing just as they used to do on ocean liners when on long voyages passengers regularly had masquerade nights. Modern cruise ships typi- cally put a masquerade event on the program but it’s usu- ally a dull parade of passcn- gers who don’: dress until after dinner. Don’t just take my word for it: a major cruise guide has voted the Costa’s toga night as the most off-the- wall event of the year at sea. Cruise director Weir spends the whole week working up the passengers for the big night. He is a man with a wacky sense of humour who gets zanier cvery day, supplementing the usual fare of (very good) roduction shows with talian karaoke and pizza- throwing. After all that a toga party sounds quite tame and peo- ple forget their inhibitions and join in. ! mean, you didn’t run away to sea to be the same person for a week, did you? Nobody works harder on the Costa Victoria than Weir, 31, who has been a sipiise director since he was His days are 18 hours long, he works seven of them a week and six months straight before heading home to Brighton, England. Home used to be Australia and he went to university in Miami. Weir speaks Italian, Spanish, and can fake Japanese brilliantly. He sings, plays the guitar and is a master story-teller. Just as well Weir is such a big presence around the ship because you're not likely to meet an officer unless you go to the disco at midnight and look like Madonna. As for the captain you’ve as good a chance of sighting Elvis. Mind you it’s the same on all ships with Italian or Greck officers. This is a new ship, built in Germany and a whopping 75,000 tons topped by two huge yellow funnels. In case you wondered, that’s huge, allowing for Costa — whose slogan is “cruising-Italian style” — to include nifty features like a izzeria, but one would ave expected an Italian rather than a Filipino chef. The best parts of the din- ing experience were the ser- vice from the hard-working (also Filipino) waiters and the wines, well-chosen and reasonably priced. However there is an odd system whereby you have to pay for the wine, involving tedious coming and going with cruise cards, before you get it. On the other hand, beer drinkers were ecstatic to find that all the bars had draught Tuborg from Copenhagen. There is no library, 33 Er THE Cesta Victoria, seen here docked at Key West in Florida, does seven-night cruises every Sunday from Ft. Lauderdale, alternating east and west Caribbean. . although books are available for passengers who go to the purser’s office and ask for a list studded with howlers such as Pride and Prejudice by Jane Austin and Brighton Rock by Graham Green. Best bring your own reading material and take it to the beautiful lounge for- ward, ride the glass clevator to the top and hide away in the coziest little hideaways imaginable. If you want to get out and about head for Costa Victoria’s covered prome- nade deck (twice round is a kilometre) perfect for walk- ing, cunning, and being steel, roller: blading. 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