Yaletown northern " panfried snapper Sheidon MY READERS must realize that I dine out quite a bit. I also cook — a !ut. And seek out greai foodstuffs all the time. My days seem to begin and end with food in some shape or form, Do I ever tire of this? Of course not! How refreshing, however, when something comes my way, making me take note just by its sheer un- complicated elegance. .Such is the cooking of Chef Markus. Wieland at his new Italian ristorante, Alabaster. » Pl tell:you what I mean. Last ‘-month,:a special few of us were invited to Alabaster for a grand “officiat’? opening, for dinner. .-/The memorable evening began ‘with Campari and iced Soave, went on to the operatic elegance _ of the Vancouver Opera Society in an impeccable candlelit setting. Almost magic. It was the cooking of Wieland that was so refreshing in this day of flower-strewn pasta and flying fish roe-dusted plate edges. Nothing of the kind here. Just honest, perfectly prepared classic dishes. We feasted on house-baked focaccia, . greens with pesto vinaigrette, a golden shimmering pheasant consomme, and a divine with’ lemon- marinated vegetables. We had a granitato of grape- fruit which cleared the way for the imain event, Wieland’s superb classic rendition of sa/timbocca alla Romana with a mushroom risotto. In true ended with Galliano. I thanked this gracious host, told him I would return for a visit and recipes so that this column would be possible. Wieland’s cooking reminds ‘one that the best of ingredients handled superbly (with no short- cuts!) is what we really want to tuck into. I caught the closed eyes and heard the soft sighs of my dining companions. Like an actor that makes it all look so simple. Wieland has trained (in his young 28 years) in Germany, Switzerland, Italy and France. No stranger to our local scene, he has done stints at the Four Seasons Chartwell, Sooke Har- bour House, the Wedgewood, the William Yell and Hastings House in Ganges. Northern Italian cooking is his favorite, and his cherished ala- baster sculpture of Venus takes centre stage in his elegant dining room to “bring us luck’? and to remind him of Italy. Wieland: was generous in shar- ing his recipes with me — for all of you. Try them at home, taking no shortcuts. For a special night out, go over to Yaletown and let Wieland cook for you. I can’t wait to return. PEAR POACHED IN RED WINE WITH ZABAGLIONE Chef-owner Markus Wieland’s elegant dessert at Alabaster is quite simple to prepare at home. For his elegant presentation, see ‘photo above. Serves 4. 2 large firm Bartlett pears (just ripe, blemish free, stem intact) 2.¢. (500 mL) dry red wine 2 oz (50 g) granuleted sugar Y2 cinnamon stick 4 vanilla bean, cut open 1 whole clove FOR THE ZABAGLIONE SAUCE: 2 egg yolks 1 whole egg 2 Tbsp. (30 mL) white wince Italian fashion, we tiramisu, caffe and ALABASTER RESTAURANT chef-owner Markus Wieland presents © Wednesday, November 17, 1993 - North Shore News - 5 NEWS photo Mike Wakefleld a typically lialian dessert of poached pear in red wine on a lush zakaglione sauce. The statue is his new restaurant's namesake signature: alabasier. 1 oz. (25 2) granulated sugar VY. vanilla bean, cut open To prepare the pears: Caiefully peel each pear- using a swivel- peeler. Halve each pcar, trying to keep some stem on each half. Core pear halves with a smail spoon. Combine red wine, sugar, cin- namon stick, vanilla bean and Exotic treat now fruit basket staple NEW ZEALAND has long been known as -the orchard of the South Pacific. This balmy, sub-tropical coun- try boasts an abundance of clean water, mineral-rich soil and an environment that is as close to perfect as can be. High-quality lamb and = dairy products are among its most famous exports. Kiwifruit, another culinary gift from New Zealand, was in- Advertisement DRINKING TOO MUCH? CONTROL: ALCOHOL MODERATION PRO- GRAMS can help. Call WILMA DIXON, Director, for a free consultation. 7324965. troduced to the country from China in the early 1900s. In China, the fruit grew wild on - trees, but the New Zealanders soon developed a larger, juicier version. Thus, kiwifruit was born and named ‘kiwifruit?’ because of its resemblance to New Zealand’s na- tional bird, the small, brown kiwi. Cana Pater ea oa SRA Gnce considered an exotic treat, kiwifruit has become a staple in Canadian fruit baskets. High in vitamin C, kiwifruit is also a valuable source of dietary fibre. The easiest way to eat a kiwi is to cut it in half and scoop out the green flesh with a spoon. , Yer vee? « ASL SEW: “Wty hand-made pica are alt “ Mixed Fruit Pie A delicious blend of the freshest fruit and berries $795 8 inches THE NEW ENGLAND PIE CO. LONSDALE QUAY MARKET 987-1663 clove in a non-reactive (stainless steel or enameled) saucepan. Add pears, and bring mixture to a gentle boil. ; Reduce heat to a simmer. Cook pears until tender, uncovered. Remove pan from heat. Cool pears in the poaching liquid, chilling until ready to serve. To present the finished dish, carefully slice each chilled pear half into thin slices, taking care to keep slices attached at the stem end, so that slices may be fanned out. Spoon warm zabaglione sauce EDGEMONT VILLAGE Corner of Edgemont Blvd. + Queens - perfect my) ” 44 In true Italian Jashion, we ended with tiramisu, caffe and Galliano.99 onto individual plates. Place chilled, fanned-out pear half onto each plate. Serve. To prepare the zabaglione sauce: Combine the yolks, egg, white wine, sugar, and scraped vanilla bean seeds together in a heavy-bottomed saucepan (stainless steel or enameled or copper) or double boiler. Place the saucepan over (not touching) simmering water. Cook the sauce, gently, whisk- ing constantly until thickened, voluminous, and very foamy and airy. Serve warm, as suggested. SALTIMBOCCA ALLA ROMANA WiTH MUSHROOM RISOTTO At Alabaster’s official grand opening, this sublime rendition of a classic saltimbocca with a risotto was. served by ‘Wieland. Standing ovations ali ’round! Serves4. ~ THE SALTIMBOCCA: 1% tbs (700 g) veal strip loin escalopes (8 total) 8 slices prosciutto 8 large fresh sage leaves 2-3 Tbsp..(30-45 mL) olive oit Sait und pepper 1 oz (25 g) butter %/ clove garlic, minced Chopped fresh parsley Pound each veal escalope out a4 bit, between waxed paper. Cover each slice with a slice of prosciuito to cover. Top with a single whole fresh sage leaf. Secure with a toothpick, weav- ing in and ‘out to keep escalopes flat. , Heat the olive oil in a large non-stick skillet until medium- hot. See Risotto page $8 -983-9330 [ We reserve the right to limit quantities, Prices in effect from Wed., Now. 17-Tues, Now. 23/93 [