DO YOU know how to
sew already, but want to
be more creative? It’s
possible to design all of
your own custom cloth-
ing by making a few
changes to standard pat-
tern pieces.

CENA Deere
Master pieces.
By Kian Samet

Sa

Using these five basic
blocks — a personal set of
“master pieces” — design
possibilities will be untimit-
ed.

Every design is based on
these five basic pieces. They
can be custom drafted and fit-
ted, or purchased from any of
the major pattern manufactur-
ers. Purchased patterns may
need adjustments, however,
for a perfect fit.

The custom wing collar
illustrated here is simple to
add to your bodice block. it’s
adaptable to a suit jacket,
dress, blouse or other top.
Follow these steps, and cut
the combined collar and
bodice as one piece.

Modifying the pattern

Add 2.5 cm or one inch to
the front edge (C-F) to allow
for cross-over (C1-F1).

Mark the position of the
first button (B). It is usually
placed at the bustline for a
dress or blouse.

Connect (B) with (S), the
point at which the shoulder
seam will meet the neck,
using a straight line.

Extend this line beyond
(S) to (N). The measurement
from (S) to (N) will be equal
to the neckline of the bodice
half-back.

Continue the line of the
shoulder seam beyond (S) for
10 cm or four inches ($1),

Create a 90-degree angle
at (N), and extend the line
seven cm or three inches to
(N1).

Mark the point of the col-
lar (O) approximately where

NEWS photo Grad Ledwidge

A.WING collar in white lace adds distinction to a
black evening jacket of sequins and lace. The custom
collar is easily adaptable to a daytime suit jacket,

dress, blouse or other top.

shown, or where desired.

Connect (OQ) to (B) with a
straight line. Curving the line
inward will create a different
look,

Take the altered bodice
and create a pattern for the
facing. Measure four cm or
1.5 inches along the shoulder
seam from (S) to (S82).
Measure six cm or 2.5 inches
along the bottom edge from
(Fl) to (F2). Connect (S2) to
(F2) with a curved line as
shown.

Trace the pattern for the
facing onto another piece of

_ paper, and use this to cut the

interfacing.

Finishing the garment

Before cutting the fabric,
try the pattern on muslin to
make sure that it fits. A com-
mon problem is for the back
of the collar to sit too high or
too tightly, showing the neck
seam. If this happens, slash
the pattern unee or twice on
the back extension of the col-
lar to add the necessary full-
ness.

Sew the garment by first

joining the side and shoulder’

seams, then the centre back of
the collar. Stitch the under-
collar to the back neck edge.
Finally, join the centre back
seam on the facing and stitch
it to the front of the garment.

To adapt this custom collar

See Design page 17

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