CS - Sumday News, July 19, 1981

Secret for the ‘10’ of chowders is in Chester

I did my best to sample
every sort of fish available in
“Nova Scotia! I tried kippers
and fish cakes for breakfast
(the kippers were superb,

the fish cakes frozen
packaged horrors), Bay of
Fundy scallops, -halibut,

lobster, smoked salmon and
haddock, pickled herrings
(delicious at the Citadel
Hotel! They serve them with
a dressing of sour Cream
mixed with diced apple,
capers and walnuts), plus
chowder at every op-
portunity. ~

Anyone who tells you that
fish “isn’t fattening” may
think they're telling the
truth. ['d believe it if my
scale didn’t register an
additional 15 pounds. Do
you think the sour cream,
lemon butter or French fries
had anything to do with it?

Chowder is another treat
that we can thank the early
Acadians for. The name
comes from “chaudiere”, the
name of the iron pot in
which it was cooked. Mind
you, there is a lot more to
making chowder’ than
boiling-up some fish in an
iron pot with a few onions
and potatoes.

A poor cook can ruin
anything and eyen a good
cook can ruin chowder by
adding tomatoes. No Nova
Scotian would dream of
doing that—it’s just a nasty
invention of some damn
Yankees, living in a little
place called Manhattan.

In Nova Scotia you get
either fish chowder—usually
a combination of halibut and
haddock OR clam chowder.

Clams are never mixed into
the fish and vice-versa. And
don't look for tomatoes.
Ordering chowder is
always an adventure. Will it
be thin and runny with
oversized chunks of potato

Po

trayel-

by Barbara
McCreadie

and overcooked strings of
fish or will it be thick, full of
choice chunks of just-done
halibut? Will some kitchen
amateur try to disguise his
failure by adding lots of
spices or will a true master
allow his creation to stand
alone?

I've always made chowder
for my family and they've led
me to believe that it was
pretty good stuff. Compared
to a lot of others I've tned,
my old recipe wasn't bad.

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But now, I have the secret
for the “perfect 10” of
chowders. We had lunch one
day at a restaurant called the
Captain's Table in Chester,
Nova Scotia. All the food
was great but the chowder -!

While my friends were
lingering over apple pie and
coffee, I was begging the
chef, Derek Redmond for
the recipe. Not only did he
give me the chowder recipe
but he included his recipes
for seafood pie and lime
sherbert with green char-
treuse. After I quit dieting
and start cooking again Ill
try these too and pass them
on to you.

Here is Derek Redmond’s
fish chowder from Nova
Scotia:

CAPTAIN’S TABLE
FISH CHOWDER

1 pound firm white fish

(halibut, haddock, cod)
‘A cup each, water and

dry white wine
small pinch of
dried tarragon

2 medium potatoes,
peeled and diced

3 ribs celery, diced

} large onion, diced

! litre light cream
(half-and-half)

3 tbspn. flour

3 tbspn. butter
white pepper, salt

Poach the fish gently in
wine and water. When
barely done, remove fish and
refrigerate. Save the liquor.

Add the vegetables to the
fish liquor and cook gently
until done but not soggy.
Add tarragon. Be very

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cautious here—five or six
tiny leaves is quite enough.

Add cream and warm
thoroughly—don't boil!

Prepare a roux with the
flour and butter (in other
words, mix together until
smooth).

Add to vegetables and
cream, stirring until slightly,
thickened. Season with salt
and white pepper

STOP HERE. Refrigerate
mixture several hours or

TOUR HOST:
REV. TOM OLIVER

overnight.

Jyst before serving, reheat
gently. Add fish.

Sur well, but don’t break-
up the fish any more than
bite-sized pieces.

Garnish’ with
snipped parsley.

This recipe will serve six
for a first course, four
normal eaters as a main
course with salad and bread
OR two chowder addicts on
a midnight binge!

fresh-

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