Luscious local berries Recipes to celebrate the return of roadside fruit stands to the North Shore WE WERE fortunate, when living in California, to have always Day, strawberries that around Valentine’s made continued around for most of the hot summer, and were so first into their oppearance spring, were abun- dant, they were taken for granted. They are gorgeous “movie star’? specimens — most of them — on the outside, and most often white and pithy on first bite. Some are sour enough to make one pucker. But then we moved to B.C., ar- riving on Canada Day. We asked new friends in West Vancouver, “where are the strawberries?’ They replied, with a tone of pi- ty and regret, “you missed the first pick two weeks ago. That's when they are the best.” First pick!?! News to me. Five years later, | cagerly await that time in mid-June when the tush, ripe, local berries appear. I avidly read the 5081 section in the North Shore News classifieds (Food Products) to see when Bob’s Produce is opening, or when Bissett’s Berry Farm is of- fering ‘‘pick-your-own.”’ I search for the friendly road sign-boards with the hand-painted smiling strawberry. | follow the arrows, even go out of my way, whenever I see the first ‘local berries’’ signpost. And mostly, during those first few weeks, our kitchen is a frenzy of strawberry delights. How do we enjoy them? First off, big bowls filled with hulled berries sprinkled with nothing more than vanilla- flavored sugar. Next, strawberries sprinkled with sugar and topped with lashings of bottled heavy cream. Frozen strawberry sorbet is next, prepared in my trusted Italian ice cream freezer. My counters are filled with bot- tles of strawberry vinegar, straw- berry ketchup, and jars of straw- . berry vinaigrette. Cooling racks boast warm strawberry and rhubarb pies (nat- ural partners), and company means a strawberry tart for dessert. Sunday night supper finishes with warm strawberry shortcake. And most mornings, my kitchen is filled with the aroma of simmer- ing berry jam. Here are some of my favorite Edena Sheldon - CUISINE SCENE recipes to get you going, with our local berry season now in full swing. JOHN'S BEST-EVER STRAWBERRY JAM My pal and fellow North Shore cooking enthusiast John Morton phoned me two summers ago from his kitchen with great ex- citement over the jam he had just made. His recipe was brief and to the point: ‘'2 parts fruit, 1 part sugar, buil exactly 30 minutes!’ Well, he was right. I have shared Morton’s recipe with friends from Wilton, Con- necticut to South Pasadena, California. All proclaim it to be the best, most fool-proof, simple jam they’ve ever made. It works with any berry or fruit, has half the sugar of most recipes, is vibrant in natural flavor and color, and takes the promised 30 minutes, Prepare in small baiches, for best results. This jam must be refrigerated *— a small price to pay for such a great jam. By the way, if you like Mor- ton’s jam, stop by his Wild Birds Nature Shop in North Vancouver and tell him so. Makes I pint (500 mL). Recipe may be doubled. ake their debut pesy 2) bat es NEWS photo Neil Lucente ROADSIDE VENDOR Suzanne Stromotich holds up a succulent strawberry at her Welch location. 1 Ib. (600 g) fresh strawberries, halved (242 cups/625 mL) Y% tb. (250 g) granulated or berry sugar (1% cups/300 mL) Combine berries and sugar in heavy stainless-steel or enameled pan. Simmer to dissolve sugar. Bring mixture to a medium-high boil and cook, uncovered, exactly 30 minutes. Stir occasionally, taking care that jam does not scorch, Remove pan from heat (jam will be a bit loose; don’t worry — it sets up perfectly every time!) and cool to lukewarm. Stir jam and transfer into clean glass jars. Top with a piece of parchment or cellophane, and cap tightly. Refrigerate, up to 6 months, FRESH STRAWBERRY SORBET This basic recipe for frozen sorbet may be adapted to any kind of seasonal berries or fruit. Especially deligious variations include raspberries, blackberries, peach, apricot, melon of any kind. Makes 1% quarts (1.5 litres). 2 ¢. syrup* 2c. (500 m1.) pureed berries 1 thsp. (15 mL) fresh lemon juice * see recipe below Combine syrup, berry puree and lemon juice. Whisk smooth. Pour into ice cream freezer (electric or manual) and freeze according to manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer sorbet into air-tight container. Freeze up to | week for best flavor. SIMPLE SYRUP Prepare this syrup and chill in bottles to have on hand all sum- mer long. Will keep indefinitely. 4c. (I kilo) granulated sugar 4c. (f litre) cold water Bring sugar and water to a boil in a saucepan until sugar dissolves. Boil 1 minute. Remove from heat. Cool syrup. Bottle and cap. Store in refrigerator indefinitely. Measure and use as suggested. CRUSHED STRAWBERRY VINAIGRETTE This unusual lovely summertime berry vinaigrette makes a wonder- ful marinade and basting sauce for grilled chicken, halibut or salmon done outdoors over a hot fire. Use it to dress chilled mixed greens and sliced avocado salad. Drizzle over a platter of chilled seasonal melons and fruits. Makes 2% cups (625 mL). Delicious! tc, (250 mL) mashed ripe straw- berries (12 large) 6 tbsp. (90 mL) raspberry or cider vinegar 3 tbsp. (45 mL) sugar ¥% ec. (175 mL) vegetable oil 2 tsp. (10 mL) minced fresh thyme or mint leaves Yq tsp. (1 mL) salt Freshly cracked black peppercorns Combine mashed berries, vinegar and sugar in a small glass bowl. Let stand 2-3 hours at toom temperature to miacerate. Whisk in the oil, thyme (or mint) leaves, salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to a glass jar. Cover and chill up to | week. Whisk or shake vinaigrette before using. (500) mL) chilled simple ITEM ON SALE] DINO VALIANO + JEAN CLAUDE * HEIDEMANN » CHACOK + JOY & FUN > KL (KARL LAGERFELD) Buy ONE PAIR of earrings 36% OFF— Buy TWO PAIRS 50% OFF HEATHERINGTONS ws