From page 32 downtown sects. The city was settled in 1887 by catdemen, who were attracted by the vast grazing grounds of the Texas Panhandle. They built elegant mansions, such as the Lee and Mary E. Bivens Home, now headquarters of the Amarillo Convention and Visitor Council, and Harrington House which is open for tours. Best known of the founding fathers is probably Charles Goodnight, inventor of the _ chuckwagon. The chuckwagon is still an important part of cowboy cul- ture. We discover just how important when we arrive at Amarillo’s Tri State Fairgrounds, where 40 rigs representing ranches through- out the region encircle a sports field. Contestants in cne of the largest‘ chuckwagon_cook-offs in: the United States, their ‘ranch-hand ‘crews all are . pi-paring the. same menu chicken. fried steak, mashed potatoes, baked beans, dough: biscuits ; (apparently a : courboy staple) an peach cob- 2 bh en the meals are ready, they'li' be. judged and then served to members of the pay- mugging event jo y in the box seats.to watch (f he wiid cow milking, standing now’ and "then; to. greet .old sour- . acquaintances with a slap on the back. The next day, we learn more about the area’s ranching background at the Panhandle- Plains Historical Museum, located on the campus of West Texas A&M University. Its archives contain records from many of the early ranches, including Goodnight’s, but its biggest attractions are a recon- structed pioneer town and col- lections of working windmills and wagons. We also step at the American Quarter Horse Heritage Centre and Museum for some insight into the breed traditionally favoured by ranch- ers for its intelligence, agility and disposition. A gallery of hands-on exhibits depicts the breed’s role in racing, ranch- ing, rodeos and dressage. Visitors who want to spend some time on horseback may take a half-day guided trail ride into Palo Duro Canyon from the Elkins Ranch, a fifth-gener- ation operation. We opt for a one-hour tour in a Jeep that has a paint job resembling black-and-white spotted cowhide and cattle horns for a hood ornament. As we drive ‘TRAVEL Amarillo rodeo is a friendly Texan affair down the steep canyon roads, the guide identifies various plants, including the juniper trees for which the canyon is named (Palo Duro is Spanish for “hard wood”), as well as freestanding rock formations, sheer cliffs and waterfalls. We arrive back on the canyon rim in time for a stick- to-your-ribs sipper of original Elkins family recipes: spicy smoked ribs, chicken and dumplings, cornbread and the inevitable sourdough biscuits. While we clean our plates, a duo serenades us with popular Western tunes. . Even more entertainment lies ahead at the Pioneer Amphitheater in Palo Duro Canyon State Park. The finale for our short stay in Amaritlo is a performance of Texas, an out- door musical now in its 35th season (Mondays through Saturdays, June 7 through August 19, 2000). Beneath a fading blue sky, with the canyon wall behind them, approximately 140 colourfully costumed singers, dancers and actors and a sup- porting cast that includes hors- es, goats, sheep, geese, chick- ” ens and rabbits bring to life the Michael Forrest invites his clients tojoinhimat , his new location Call him at . Travel Masters ‘904-8102 205-221 West Esplanade North Vancouver BC reg #3235-1 Treat Yourself To: The Ultimate = Whale Watching Experience. Tofino, B.C. See 45 Years of Magic “fun and adventure than ever before. See your ‘travel agent for details. . Texas Panhandle of the 1880s. We've had just a few days of contact with cowboy culture, but we leave Amarillo the next morning with an infectious appreciation for it. IEYOU GO: Gorge: Palo Duro Canyon State Park is the Amarillo area’s main recreational area, with campgrounds, picnic areas, bicycle routes, hiking trails and caves. It covers about 20% of the 120-mile-long 1,200-foor- deep canyon, with the other 80% remaining in private hands. The canyon floor, with its juniper trees and wildflow- ers, provides a lush habitat for songbirds and an interesting contrast to surrounding geo- logical features with such Sunday, April 2, 2000 —- North Shore News ~ 33 descriptive names as Spanish Skirts, Sad Monkey and Lighthouse. Or Gorge: The Big Texan is a restaurant that’s been satisfy- ing Texas-sized appetites since 1959. The house special is a free 72-ounce steak dinner free — that is to anyone who can eat the giant slab of beef aiong with a salad, baked potato and bread rofl in an hour. Among those who have succeeded are a nine-year-old child and a grandmother. Pioneer Palaces: Several of Amarillo’s historic homes now provide tourist accommoda- tions. The Galbraith House Bed and Breakfast (1710 South Polk Street, Amarillo TX 79102, phone 1-806-374- 0237) is a showpiece of wood construction built for lumber king H.W. Galbraith in 1912. Auntie’s House Bed and Breakfast (1712 South Polk Street, Amarillo TX 79102, phone 1-806-371-8054), also dating from 1912, belonged to businessman Allen Early, builder of the city’s first grain elevator and developer of Panhandle petroleum fields. Information: Amarillo Convention and Visitor Council (1000 South Polk Street, Amarillo TX 79101, phone 1-800-692-1338 or 1- 806-374-1497, fax 1-806- 373-3909, e-mail , Web site ) _ is headquartered in a mansion built by cattle baron Lee Bivins Hey Canada; get the very best of Disneyland: Park ang Southern California, “ when you purchase a 5-Day Disneylande Flex Passport for the price of a 3-Day Disne land> Flex Passport. Inciudes Early Admission» _ Atroctions ord ntercicment sbi to change, Sone restions opp. = ~ ly Arson des ot pre ddl gs eared. © Bey NR A Oe Oe Si ee I ew _into the Park. Don’t miss the celebration with more fantasy, IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA __ Visit us at disneyland.com . : PAO ASE ASO ae eA AO St fe DL ee ed, SNe OO Bh OMe, eS