DEEP IN A KITCHEN, SOMEWHERE IN VANCOUVER Pip ma The burly, wrench- wielding mechanic, overalls black from hours spent crawling about steam engine boilers, railroader’s cap pull- ed low over the eyes, but not quite covering the grimy streaks on his face, doesn’t look like he could be at home over a frying pan in the kitchen. But Pip Stairs, aged 34, protests that under that layer of work-induced perma-dirt there exists a true gourmet whose spare ribs compare to those of the finest Van- couver restaurants. Pip is just one of many launches into the creation of his soya sauce chicken. He agrees to tell me how Story and photos by GILL SHAW he makes the chicken, but doesn't think it worthy of notice since everybody makes chicken like this, ac- cording to Pip. But he thinks his bar-b- cooks who are scared off by the detailed jargon of a cookbook will feel at home with these instructions. To begin with, Pip sug- gests using the number of pounds of ribs you will want to eat; at least a pound and a half for two. Find pork ribs that are as lean as possible and buy “the big ones,” Pip says. Pop the ribs in the oven, in an oven-proof dish, at “jeez, I can’t remember what the temperature is,” (don’t worry, he later remembered it to be about 350°F), first sprinkling them with garlic food men who have discovered mothers have stopped telling their daughters, “learn to cook and you'll find yourself aman”. He considers himself for- tunate to have achieved some proficiency in the kit- chen, especially now that he finds himself in the role of a single parent to his four- year-old son, Bean. “Just give me half an hour,” Pip tells me as he MAKING que spare ribs recipe is wor- thy of attention and pro- ceeds to disclose his method of preparing them, a method which he is willing to defend against any who think to top them. A rather daring claim when just about any cook worth their garlic salt believes his/her ribs to hold top honours. A conventional recipe this is not, but perhaps would-be PRECISE TEMPERATURE changes to make sure the oven does not explode, Pip's experience with steam boilers makes him an expert when working with delicate kitchen instruments. 106 West 3rd St North Van BC Phone 984-9741 Kitchen centre Ltd. DEALER FOR C ABINE T+ KITCHENS VANITIES COUNTERTOPS APPUANCES CERAMIC TILE 2 Now offering Formica $4 99 Tub Enclosures- Installed Thinking of replacing your countertops? ‘'Call us”’ salt and pepper. Cover the dish and leave the ribs for about 45 minutes while you prepare the sauce. “Meanwhile,” Pip advises, “slice up an onion, get a can of tomato soup and dump it into a mixing bowl. Add about half a cup of honey and about % of a cup of vinegar, preferably cider vinegar.” At this point Pip explains the “abouts”, telling “I just Food for thought Everyone on the North Shore Could have read your menu by 5 o clock this evening # it had been on this page May we take your ordef now / call display advertising 980-0511 es spare ribs CS5-Sunday News, May 4, 1980 JUST ADD A TOUCH from that special can to provide that extra bit of flavour. go by the seat of my pants and I don't follow any hard and fast rules.” He worries that % of a cup might make it too vinegary. “That's about it I guess. After 45 minutes pour the sauce over the mbs, put the onions (raw) on top of that and put the entire dish back m the oven, uncovered, for another fifteen minutes. Pip suggests serving the ribs with baked potatoes, which can be in the oven while the ribs are cooking, or rice. “I don’t really like rice,” Pip says, “but that’s the way I used to get them at home.” A crisp white wine “whatever you think crisp is,” should accompany the meal, Pip adds. But that’s a Matter of personal. prefe.ence. m —_ wee The Ba ne OSa V Buffet Gi Pudsons Bay Company