36 ~ Sunday, September 27, 1998 — North Shore News north shore news #2 TRAVEL Pa —— Great adventure in the Great Glen On the road in Scottish Highlands Andrew McCradie Editor andrew@nsnews.com ONLY in Scotland would a trek up the highest point in the country be called “the | dullest walk in Scotland.” Yet that was the response we received on a number of occasions when inquiring - abour hiking Ben Nevis, at - 4,406ft. (1344m) the highest point in the U.K. First an uncle, then a cousin, then a bed & breakfast owner. The message seemed the ‘same — everywhere: “Whaddya wan’ de that for laddie? Ben Nevis? Tis’ dead borin’.” Unfortunately, we never had a chance to be bored. The day we planned our assault on the: winding. footpath four. miles’ southeast of Fort William the ‘Scottish weather turned and the mists descended on the heather-covered Munros (A Munro is:a Scottish hill over 3,000 feet in height. In 189% Sir Hugh Munro mapped 280 Scottish peaks over this elevation, and for: his efforts his name has become synonymous with hill walking in the Highlands. “Munro-bagging”, or climbing as many Munros as possible, is a popular. pastime with the Scots). With our lofty plans rained out, we cracked open our guide book and began tn discover the many attractions in the Fort William area. We had spent the night at the cozy Prince’s House in Glenfinnan — 25 kilometres west of Fort William — and tol- = ee ee THE remains of Urquhart Castie stand in stark relief to Loch Ness deep in the Scottish Highlands. The first cas-. tle was built on the site in 1228, and through the centuries has deen added to by the clans of the Great Glen: . lowing a hearty Scottish breakfast in the inn’s restaurant set out to discover the historic area. Glenfinnan is best known for the striking monument erected as tribute to Charles Edward Stuart, or Bonnie Prince Charles, who in 1745 led a Jacobite uprising which originated in Glenfinnan. A son of the exiled Scottish king, Charles travelled from Rome to the western coast of Scotland and landed in Arisaig. At Glenfinnan he raised his family standard and gath- ered an army of Highlanders to drive the English from Scotland. The fierce warriors had initial success as they drove south all the way to Derby, but with supply lines stretched thin and the winter coming on a retreat was beat back North. The English ra#ied and followed, culminating in the epic, bloody defeat of Charles’ army at Culloden, a tew miles cast of Inverness. It was to be the last battle fought. on British soil. | ce The tower at Glenfinnan was erected in the late 19th centu- ry to honor. the’ site..where Charles raised- the’ standard; and is one;of-many>:moni ments and tributes to t toric uprising. re The Prince’s House, an: 18th century stage house, is named after Charles, and the restaurant is named afte: MacDonald, the clan ¢ daughter who helped Char hide then escape following the massacre at Culloden. “If you're outdoor-minded this inn is, the perfect base. “Situated halfway © between ~ Fort William and’ Mallaig; 'a . ferry port for the Isle of Skye @ and other inner Hebridean’ "Islands, the area offers many hikes, fishing and in the wi ter skitng iz: the Nevis As we. relaxed’ in. the evening with a cream real. cask alé ‘in’ ‘the : . lounge: —. called . Pretender’: after King James VII; the “Old Pretender” — ‘one..of- Prince’s House owners announced to the bartender he: ¢ ping out for an hour or so to do some fishing: . Robert Hawkes, his wife and a friend have-owned the. Inn for. nine years, and his love for the outdoors is reflected in the deco! of Pretenders — wildlife and Munro paintings fill the massive mural of stags near a loch dominates one wall; an plaque commemorating Hawkes’ time from the 1987: Ben race hangs over the. bar (two hours, 25 minutes } onds). : East of Glenfinnan is Fort William, a tourist- the lee of Ben Nevis and on the shore of Loch’ Linnh outskirts of Fort William is Neptune's Staircase, a flight.o! locks connecting Loch Linnhe to the Caledonian Canal? The afternoon we visited Fort William it looked like:a 1¢ the travellers had also planned to hike Ben Nevis: that /dai gortex jackets, hiking boots and bulging calf muscl However, with the clouds down around our things getting a workout on this day were Visa’-ca eibows. If you like shopping and if you like Scottish pubs Karen McCredie photos : William’s toven centre is well worth a visit. For ch i: main cobblestoned pedestrian walk is full of authen! : cet WHEN the mists descend in the Fort William area — like above the Gtenfinnan railway viaduct in right photo — hill-walkers and ramblers descend on the real cask ales in establishments like The Ben Nevis (left photo). Col rate the OM iIaps in Siyle ‘Christmas Cruise’ - December 20th, 1898 Western Caribbean - spend 7 days aboard the new ‘Veendam’ Fares as low as $1,883 CDN ‘Now Years Cruise’ - December 27th, 1992 ‘ Eastern Caribbean - spend 7 days aboard the new ‘Veendam’ COE a Ne OS 6 BNE ww Save up to 40% on brochure fares! a wwe $e ww we Mill and Celtic craft shops; for the latter pubs are: fo ery block. ; The best of the bunch was the Ben Nevis, a 19th r house featuring hearty Scottish fare and more of those incredi ble real cask ales. 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