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Sunday, May 9, 1999 — North Shore News - 31

Lausanne preserves region’s rural roots

From page 30

with a population somewhat less than
half tyat of Victoria. Its citizens, perhaps
in a superior dig at worldly Geneva
nearby, lovingly refer to Lausanne as a
“big Swiss market town.”

In fact, rich green Alpine pastures
where brown and white cows graze to
produce the milk for Gruyére cheese are
within casy reach by car or tour bus.

But you need not leave I ausannae ro
find stimulating experiences. Visitors can
start with the Roman ruins at Lousonna
on the lakeshore, then stroll on the
promenades of Ouchy, Lausanne’s
waterfront resort sister. Relax with a
drink at Veille Ouchy (old Ouchy), one
of the coziest spots, popular with resi-
dents and not yet over-run by sightseers.

A short, steep ride on the metro
takes you to the old Cité and the early
Gothic Lausanne cathedral with its stun-
ning rose window of 104 individual

_.stained glass pieces. The brooding sand-
stone structure was built between the
12th and 13th centuries.

’ After 10 p.m. you can hear the town
crier who nightly climbs 236 stairs to
the top of the cathedral tower and
hollers his brief situation report. On a
nearby cobblestone street is one of the oldest dining places in
Europe. The reasonably priced Restaurant 4 la Pomme de Pin
first heated up its stove in 1505 at 13 Rue Cité Derriere.

7 Intemational Olympic Committee headquarters are in
Lausanne. Curiosity-seekers can visit the Olympic Museum and
reflect on how professionalism, cheating athletes and corrupt

_ Officials tarnished the movement once purported to be about
arrateur sports. _

? Lukewarm to art galleries? Lausanne has one you may find
intriguing and pravocative. It is a gallery of “art brut” — raw

art created by intuitive artists outside the common stream —
“housed in a 15th century mansion, Chateau de Beaulieu.
Many works, for example the grotesque upside-down focus

7 and Picasso-like abstracts done with black pen by Vojislov Jakic,

‘are far from upbeat but extremely moving. On one Jakic wrote,
“ “This is neither a drawing nor a painting, but the sedimentary

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COWS graze in the alpine couniry-
side outside Lausanne.

deposit of suffering.”

Jakic, a Serb who suffered severe hard-
ship as a child, is one of 200 people
whose art was collected by the artist Jean
Dubuttet. They inchide works by the
handicapped and disadvantaged, rechuses
and inmates of prisons and mental hospi-
tals. ‘The art brut museum is not The
Louvre — burt a visit can generate its
own kind of emotional experience,

At the east end of the scenic lakeshore
autoroute (quieter and more panoramic
roads are higher up through terraced
countryside) is Montreux, noted for its
annual jazz festival. Nearby is the water-
front redoubt which inspired Byron’s
poem The Prisoner of Chillon and whose
dungeon still chills visitors.

In warm weather, preferably on market
day, consider stopping at the Place de la
Palud in the centre of Lausanne for trois
decis (about a quarter of a litre) of the
local white wine at a sidewalk cafe in this
town square, At one end of the square a
clock marks vach hour with animated
wooden figures representing historical
scenes. The market, a gigantic open-air
department store, occupies 10 streets
and two squares. Ir is a multicolored
spectacle of people, farmers’ produce
and coundess other offerings. For visi-
tors to this European crossroads, Lausanne offers an enviable
balance between tourist attractions, culture and commerce while
preserving its deep rural roots.

If You Go:
How to Get There

Lausanne’s international airport is Geneva-Cointrin, about an
hour from Lausanne by car or rail on onc of the 50 or more
trains a day. There are no non-stop scheduled flights to Geneva
from Vancouver, but Canadian Airlines and Briush Airways fly
to London with connections to Geneva. Lufthansa flies via
Frankfurt to Geneva.

Photo Germaine Holden

Stay:
There are dozens of hotels and pensions or B & Bs to suit all
tastes and budgets, from the luxurious (double rooms from

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