Tim Pawsey
Contributing Columnist

A few years back, Chile
arrived on the world
wine scene with a bang.

The Chileans took a leaf
out of California and
Australia’s books by giving
consumers New World van-
etals they could casily under-
stand and beyond that reason-
ably priced, well-made wines.

However, it was a passion-
ate romance but brief. While
Chilean wines sll offer good
value — with a handful of
exceptions — the wines appear
-to have fallen victim to the
homogenized mass-market.

Among those exceptions is
Vina Carmen, whose wine-
maker Alvaro Espinoza
poured his full range at a
recent Vancouver tasting.
These wines showed head and
shoulders above their peers.

Vina Carmen was estab-
lished in 1850 by Christian
Lanz, who named the proper-
ty after his wife. Goad call.
These wines will have you
singing Torreador in no time.

Today’s company is owned
by Chilean conglomerate
CSAV, which also concrois
Santa Rita but Vina Carmen is
run as a premium winery at
arm’s length from its giant
sibling. Looking for Chilean
value and depth and complexi-
ty? Carmen has it in spades.

1998 Vina Carmen
Sauvignon Blanc. Loads of
fruit with good balance and
acidity and sume, nice topical
citrus notes. Enjoy it with ovs-
ters. The just-arrived °99 is
even fruiter. $13 to S14.

1997 Vina Carmen
Merlot. Let it breath. We tast-
ed our fast bottle again a day
after the cork was pulied.
Superb berries on the nose,
good weight in the mouth
and surprising depth with
some tobacco notes (and 20%
Cabernet Sauvignon.) Rich
enough to stand up to some
serious red meat, or at least
barbecue. The "98 isn’t quite
as mpe. Still, a real steal at $13
to $14.

1997 Vina Carmen
Grande Vidure. Actually it's
Carmenet (with 40% Cab),
derived from the old
Bordeaux variety. Vidure-or
perhaps “verdure,” says
Alvarez, was its old peasant
name. Some intriguing anise
and coffee notes with rich and
rounded character and soft
lingering fruit to close. $20 to
$22.

1997 Cabernet
Sauvignon Reserve. Good
structure and complexity from
Merlot and Carmenet blended
in. Some tar aroma and
licorice notes with big chewy
berries on the palate. $20 to
$22. One heck of a wine for
the money.

Vina Carmen is enjoying a
heady ascent into worldwide
recognition. The winery has
picked up a scries of signifi-
cant medals and recognition
from Vinltaly, Decanter
Magazine and three-time top
winery winner by Wine e&
Spirits magazine. Winemaker
Espinoza has recently moved
on to another winery but his
legacy of just a few years has
established Carmen firmly as
one of Chile’s best perform-
ers.

Wednesday, January 5. 2000 -- Worth Shore News - 15

FOO

wineries, along with comple-
mentary tastes from better
restaurants. Tickets are $75.

The year 2000 edition of
the BC Wine & Ovster
Festival (January 18) is pre-
sented rtyv Wines and
hosted by the Four Seasons
Hotel, Pearl Sea Products will
be there as well as Albion
Fisheries and Rodney's Oyster
House, along with seasoned
shuckers as well as most of the
province's wineries. Pick up
tickets ($29.99) from any
Liberty store and support a
worthy cause (the event is a

‘ Children’s
Hospital's Tree Clinic).

Also coming fast is the see-
ond annual Sun Peaks Ieewine
Festival (January 21-23).
Information from Sun Peaks
Resort Association, 250-578-
7842.

The Bacchanalian Wine
festival takes place February
25 at Sinclair Centre.
Represented will be some 60

Live Psychic Demonstrations &
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Call 292-1299,
Rarlybird tickets for
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Vina Carmen offers Chilean complexity

Festival’s international tastings
in April are currently on sale
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