24 — Friday, February 12, 1999 — North Shore News Post-Expo Lisbon sti Sean O'Byme Contributing Writer EXPO ’98 put Portugal in the world spotlight. Five hundred vears cartier explorer Vasco da Gana made his now-mous vovage around the Cape of Good Hope. Portuguese explorers were the first in recorded his- tory tO circumnavigate the globe. These tirst steps toward shrinking the earth made it only appropriate that Portugal should host the final World's Fair of this century. Doubly appropriate in that the theme of Eypo "98 was “The Oceans.” Portuguese seafaring dates to the beginnings of its ‘fake vour way trom the cle- vator to nearby Rua Garrett. Yhis street, lined with fash- ionable shops, is alse home to the 19th century A Brasileira, reputedly the old- est café in the cin. The bar hos long been the favourite haunt of Lisbon’s literati and artists. Modern Paintings vie for attention with dark-stained wood, mir rors, and tilewark. Don't be shy abour sharing a table ics worth braving the crowds to stop in fora bica. 3. From the viewing plat form of the Ascensor Santa Justa, one of Lisbon’s most prominent sights stares back trom the opposite hilltop. The Castelo de Sao Jorge (St. George’s castle) is a par- CASTELO de Sao Jorge, Lisbon’s partially restored medieval fortress. nationhood, and the evidence of 800 years of maritime tra- dition permeates the country. After announcing the fair, Lisbon worked to modernize its infrastructure and to beau- tify its more run-down areas. So, now that Expo is past and the tourists have depart- ed, why should anyone fo to Lisbon? Quite aside from being the gateway to a fascinating country, the Portuguese capi- tol is a city and culture that deserved exploration well beyond the pavilions and hotels of Expo '98. With this in mind, here are five excur- sions to show the city behind the Fair. 1. One of the few sets of gridwork streets.in Europe, the Baixa (“lower town”) is bounded by the Castelo de Sao Jorge and the Bairro Alto; to the north by Praca Rossio, and to the south by the river. A walk in the Baixa will find streets lined with a variety of shops and cafés. Enjoy an espresso (called a “bica” or droplet) at an out- door café; window shop; bur best of alt, watch the people. No Expo will tell you as much about a culrure. 2. The Bairro Alto, or upper town, is easily accessi- bie, and the best way to get there is trom the Baixa. Rising from Largo do Carmo is the Art Nouveau Ascensor Santa Justa, designed by Gustave Eiffel, This freestanding 19th century clevator transports riders to the Bairro Alto For less than a doilar. The view- ing platform offers a stun- ning vista of Lisbon and a close-up view of the Carmelite Convent. The ecrig monument was all bur destrayed in the 1755 carth- quake that levelled most of civic Portugal; only the Gothic arches remained standing. The convene and the archéological museum housed within were restored to open in time tor Expo. Leen ee ee EEEEEEaaEEe tially restored medieval stronghold which is open to the public. It is accessible by foot, an uphill hike through a picturesque neighbourhood, buce plan to get lost even with a map. Those for whom hills or time pose a problem are advised to take a taxi or a bus. Once at the top, you can stroll the grounds and ram- parts at your Icisure, walking through arcades of flowering hibiscus and bougainvillea, perhaps encountering a wild peacock, all the while pon- dering the continuing pres ence Of seven centuries af history. 4. Those secking a taste of high art will have their palates sated here. Museums ranging tram Antiqite te Contemporary are scattered deross Lisbon. Perhaps the best single collection is ar rhe Pundayae Calouste Gulbenkian, with its exhibits of classic! Greek, Roman, Oriental, and Tbheran art. Logated north of Parque Eduardo VIL, the Fundagaa is too far from the centre ta walk comtortably, burt it ts well-served by metro, bus, and tani. 5. The small ncighbour hood of Belém is about siv miles west of Lisboa and is easily accessible by tram or train trom Praca Comercio. Belém is a marvel showeas- ing some of the best exam- ples of Manucline architec: ture in Portugal. This style, so-named for King Manuel J, is rife with maritime symbols reflecting the country’s sea- faring traditions. On the riverbank, che Monumento dos Descobrimentos commemo- rates the fifth centenary of Henry the Navigator. A short walk away, the Torre de Belém watches over the river, though instead of guardsmen it now houses a small nuse- um. Behind an impressive sculpted garden lies the mag- nificent Manucline Mosteiro dos Jeronimos. The monastery grounds also contain an archéological museum, a planetarium, and maritime museum. A short walk back towards Lisboa finds the Museu Nacional dos Coches, housing ceremonial carriages dating to the cigh- teenth century. If your teet are still fune- tioning at this point, the five- mile walk back to Lisboa along the waterfront makes a pleasant end to the excursion. See Tram pane 36 Bez voOuUR ROOM ° Custom Yens & furniture for children o Pevsonalized gifts "BY APPT. 738> 2003 BOOKCASE SALE Natural Blue Green White Burgundy unfinished 20) inches wide to 6 ft. wide 6 ft. high 5 ft. high 4 ft. high 3 ft. high or? Your choice of sizes & finish locally crafted. Priced from *79° SPECIAL INTRODUCTORY OFFER BOOKSHELVES | Photos Sean O'Byrne A freestanding 19th-century elevator, the Ascensor Santa Justor, transports rid- ers to the Bairro Alto (upper town). It was designed by Gustave Eiffel. 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