14 - Sunday, June 4, 1995 ~ North Shore News Creative sev with a fee DEVELOPING A feel for fabric makes it possible to be creative when selecting material for a new garment. Sew Right By Kian Samet All commercial patterns will spec- ify the yardage required and recom- mend suitable fabrics, But it's also possible to shop without a pattern or to substitute your own choice of fab- ric if you keep the following guide- lines in mind: ‘fhe quantity of fabric required depends on its width as well as your measurements. To make a quick cal- culation, start by combining the gar- ment’s length (plus a hem allowance) and your circumference (plus seam allowances as. appropriate). Details such as pleats and pockets will need extra material. . I always recommend purchasing three metres when the fabric is not intended for a specific project. This ° quantity will be sufficient for a basic dress, straight skirt, simple blouse, coat or suit. ,” Two and q half metres will make a ,, Jacket. If you pemernber this when travelling, exoti@ or unique fabrics “-"” can make a memorable gift. Don’t be ‘afraid to use_a different fabric, but . ‘choose one with a similar weight and amount of body to those recommend- ed by the pattem. A rayon fabric can successfully be exchanged for crépe de chine in a draped and gathered dress pattern, but not for linen suiting in a more struc- tured design. When you find a fabric you love, make sure it is right for you. Hold the bolt in front of you and assess the 66 Textile trends to watch for this spring and summer include transparency, which often appears in multiple layers of a sheer fabric such as chiffon, 99 effect in a full-length mirror. The color should complement your skin tone, and prints, stripes or plaids should not overwhelm your features or work against your figure. Finally, decide if the fabric is suit- able for the garment's design. Galleria touted as W. Van fashion hub . From page 43 The Gap and Eddie Bauer will be + joined by “Coast Mountain Sports, which will open up a 4,500 square- © foot store by mid-June. Kettle Creek Store moved into the north mall in * early March. . : ; The’ south .mall’s lower level is evolving into a destination for the * hip,-young fashion-seeker. while the / upper-level Galleria’ is bringing in more upscale retailers to attract an ‘older crowd... . Apperitiv, a ladies" retailer of mo Euro-style coordinated collections, “opened in April in the Galleria. “- Moulé, a ladies’ fashions and gift _ boutique, is set to open mid-June; : Mondi will arrive mid-July. Park Royal marketing director Renna McCready has: been busy overseeing the Galleria's develop- ment into “the fashion hub for West Vancouver.” The concept is of a fash- ion village within a mall. Special services like valet park- ing, strolling fashion shows and Saturday aftemoon tea pasties are on the slate for summer... Downstairs, Taxxi, a retailer of Mexx clothing, will move into its new home beside La Senza mid-sum- mer. Aritzia has just doubled its size, moving into space vacated by Music World, which relocated nearer to the Food Court. All this shopping is enough to work up an appetite, you say? No problem, Milestones is set to open near the theatres. But ravenous shoppers will have to wait till the fall before this bound-to-be-popular eatery opens. NO MOW PROBLEMS Read Home & G, arden and you could have no mow problems! Monthly | Specials clocks, salt and pepper sets, candlestick holders plus many more eift items 1598 Lonsdale Ave. North Vancouver for fabric A loose weave might make lining necessary, while a stretchy knit may not be suitable for a more structured pattern, 1 find that natural fibres usually work well for special-occasion looks —- their classical elegance enhances a sophisticated design. These fabrics are prone to wrinkling, however, so keep this in mind if you will be sitting in a fitted garment for any length of time. Textile trends to watch for this spring and summer include trans- parency, which often appears in mul- tiple layers of a sheer fabric such as chiffon. Use this look for a sheer blouse layered under a long vest or for a soft skirt —- which can range from ankle-length to as short a you like — worn under a long tunic top. Solid fabrics with a textured surface are also popular. The grainy surface of crépe and cloqué, or the natural variations of textured bourette and doupion silks will give your designs a current look. Kian Samet teaches Haute Couture Sewing for Capilano College Extension Programs. She has her own design studio, specializing in evening clothes and wedding gowns, and works in the movie production industry. 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