‘ for alpine relaxati THE village that’s in danger of growing into the mall at the bottom of the moun- tains is best observed from the cozy retreat of Durlacher Hof, just two minutes and one world away. This is where you'll find the Alpine charm thar Whistler sought before the latest construction explosion and arrival of the $350,000, two-bedroom condo on top of the clothing store almost identical to the shop across the street. Durlacher Hof warms the heart on arrival with free parking in a spacious fore- court unspoiled with yellow lines and uncivil rowing signs. It’s just a little thing but Erika and Peter, the hosts, pay their guests the compli- ment of assuming they know how to park their cars. Erika and Peter are from Austria and the pension is modeled on a farmhouse in the Alps. Shocs are doffed at the door and cach guest is given a pair of comfort- uble slippers. The eight rooms are superb. I had a . gorgeous view of the moun- tains, spacious bathroom with whirlpool tub (and candle) and a welcome glass of wine. Durlacher Hof has the: warmth. of an upmarket bed and breakfast and the facili- ties of a boutique hotel, the key to it all being the energy cand talent of Erika _Durlacher. Guests get along so well it’s almost as if she ‘has hand-picked them for a house party. ; - There is a comfortable lounge, a well-stocked bookcase, sauna and out- door whirlpool. Everywhere there is handcrafted wood- work and flowers. The heart of the house is the kachelofen, a traditional farmhouse kitchen oven that is actually an Aga from Britain. It’s $15,060 worth of cast iron Erika uses to produce the most talked about breakfasts in Whistler. (Aga sagas?) start with epic _ aromas and dishes such as crepes with apple, cinna- mon, yogurt and fresh blue- berries. The muffins are banana whole-wheat and the tea is from Harrods. When guests request a dinner, as her legion of reg- ulars often do, Erika whips up treats like mother used to make, such as leek soup, a schnitzel with mushroom sauce, cheesecake and good wines. We enjoyed such a meal, remarkable not only for the delicious cooking, but for the fact that all the guests dressed quite smartly for the table, This was in sharp con- trast to the previous night when we dined at I! Caminetto, Umberto Menghi’s flagship restaurant in Whistier, where the food and service were first class bur several people sat down in sweat pants and one man kept his cap on. Perhaps when the village was smaller and the line-ups were longer the doorman was more selective. One asset in the new part of the village is the Mark James-formula Brew House, a micro-brewery with six’ fresh beers, great-looking pizzas, 13 televisions and 58 Correction ' LAST - Sunday the travel item on Mayne Island's Oceanwood Country inn gave the wrong phone num- sound speakers. It’s ideal for a date who’s not long on conversation. On Mondays pizzas are half price and pints $3.75. Try Frank’s nut brown, Twin Peaks pale ale and the Lifty lager. Golfers get a good deal * at Pemberton’s Big Sky or Sundays when tce-times after 3 pm go for $55 and include dinner. This compares with the regular rate of $85. It’s a great course and enjoys the traditional touch of having holes with names, such as Purgatory (the number one stroke hole, naturally), Hang Time, Deep Breath and Final Approach. Don’t visit Whistler with- out taking in Big Sky, and if you need a lesson check out the Golf Academy. Big Sky’s valley setting surrounded by mountains is quite spectacular; even non- golfers will enjoy a cold ale on the balcony of the club- house (Check the web site at www.bigskygolf.com or call toll-free 1-800-668- 7900). Whistler Golf Club, meanwhile, has a smart new clubhouse and also offers a toll-free reservations num- ber, 1-800-376-1777. Durlacher Hof is a mem- ber of Unique Northwest Country Inns and the Association of Special Places. Rates start at $130 double including breakfast and afternoon tea. Ask about golf, ski, adventure and honeymoon packages (Phone: 1-604-932-1924; Website: www.specialplaces. pm & Breakfast and the facilities of.a boutique hotel. In. addition:to: the: 2: whirlpool (above) there is a comfortable lounge and a well-stocked bookcase. ‘ber. The correct number is (250) 539-5074. Protect yourself Hire an experienced ICBC Claims Lawyer JOHN NOBLE } English . Riding Lessons Book now for September Ages 8-Adult @W Excellent indoor/outdoor facilities ® Deluxe boarding available @ Close to incredibly scenic trail NORTH SHORE EQUESTRIAN CERUTRE 1301 Lillooet Road Next Van 988-5131 A n unexpected iliness or accident in the U.S. can cost a fortune. And often, B.C. Medical covers less than 10% of the bill. Before you leave B.C., protect yourself with BCAA's Out-of-Province Medical Insurance. 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