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north shore news

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Wednesday, July 15, 1998 — North Shore News — 27

A House of first-rate West Coast cuisine

From page 26

attractive cherrywood horse-
shoe- “shaped facility at the
restaurant’s heart, has
become a genuine neighbor-
hood hotspot. Conversation
prevails and high spirits are
de rigueur.

And the surrounding
restaurant is developing a
well-deserved reputation as a
destination location for dis-
cerning diners from around
the Lower Mainland and
beyond.

It is a favorite suggestion
from concierge for visitors
staying at downtown hotels.

No better beachtront situ-
ation exists.

Were the food, service and
ambience only average, it
would be merely a destina-
tion.

But Mr. Brooks has
ensured that ir is a destina-
tion with a first-class gastro-
nomic payoff.

His dining room is crisply
appointed and manned with
some of the best table-side
service talent north of the
inlet.

And why not?

What better place to strap
on an apron and ply your

- dining room trade?

Food knowledge and assis-
tance with the Beach House's
extensive wine list is available
at every turn.

But of course the soul of
any great restaurant is the
kitchen.

And at the Beach House,
the compact culinary quarters
thar house the Beach soul-
men are coming into their
own.

Chef Sonny Mendoza’s
menus continue to develop
complexity and maturity.
‘Witness his [atest summer-
time Beach House instal-
ment.

It’s not cheap: appetizers
go for $6 to $13, with an
aristocratic Beluga Caviar
’ clocking in at $85 per serv-
ing; entrees range from $16
to $31. The top end being a
Washington state lamb rack
. with a pinenut crust.

Beach bums need not
apply.

But you get what you pay
for. And at the Beach House
what you pay for is a celebra-

_ tion of West Coast and

Pacific Rim cuisine.

Ahi Tuna Tartare and
New Potato Saiad; Smoked
Alaskan Biack Cod with
Mirin and Ginger; Seared
Giant Atlantic Scallops with
venison pate; Jumbo Black

Tiger Prawns baked with
hazelnut butter, watercress

and cracked black pepper
risotto; Roasted Chilean Sea
Bass with grilled baby leeks,

apple, beet, potato puree and
cilantro oil.

Sampied dishes on a
recent warm June evening,
underscored the Mendoza-
Brooks commitment to
Beach House quality and din-
ing verve.

The Filet of Beef’
Tenderloin, suffused with
subtle smoked flavors, was
served blood rare atop a
puree of garlic mashed pota-
to, red pepper and squash.

It was topped with a vig-
orous horse radish and ringed
with brilliant deep green
steamed spinach and basted

ina savory red wine, parsley
and caper oi! reduction.

Excellent company for 3
bottle of Teruzzi & Puthod
Peperine 1995 ($36) from
the Beach House’s tine wine
cellar.

The opening Grilled
Calamari appetizer came with
a spirited tomato fennel relish
spiked with Szechuan pepper-
corns and decorated with
fresh watercress.

I would have preferred the
calamari medium grilled
rather than rare. It was far
too chewy for me.

But its accompaniment

NEWS photo Brad Ledwidgs

DUNDARAVE GISHES ... Seared Giant Atlantic
Scallops with venison pate, greens and maple-but-
ternut squash coulis grace a tabie at the elegant
Beach House restaurant at West Vanccuver’s
Dundarave beach.

A Piece of the Pie

On Fridays and Mondays for the month of July.
Enjoy a slice of homemade pie with gourmet
home os. ice cream for

$495 Dine in or take out Take Home Pies
s aRA., $3.70

24 hours notice

1393 Marine Drive
West Vancouver 925-2401

Was interesting and outspo-
ken.

Inside the House is a buzz
of high spints and affluence:
champagne and oysters on
the half shell at the adjoining
table; Louis Jadot
Chardonnay and Spring
Salmon Gravlax at the rable
behind.

The buzz might over-
whelm the sensibilities of
those secking a quiet night
on the town,

Bur this is summer. Time
to shed the brown shoes and
grey overcoats.

Get out of the house and

into the life of our commu Wrong number:
nity. In the July 1 Table
Or, in this case, into the Hopping the phone number
House and into the high life for Tasos in West Vancouver
of your community. was listed as 925-7781,
po ee ae which is incorrect. The cor- — -—
Corrective measures rect number is 926-7781.

| BUFFET *9”

§ Sun. & Mon. 5-8 P.M.

TUES.-THURS. off of
DINNER Exp duly 21/98
India

purchase 1 entree at rep price fon.
1 & rec. 2nd entree at Sus off Lunch Ko on. Fri.

Flavour

Anniversary Special

Valid when two or more dinner entrees ave purchased,
Limit 2 coupons per table. Offer valid until July 31/98.

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servations 926-4228

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