Over 700,Ci " died at Verdun From page 38 As the Canadians remem- ber Vimy Ridge and the British the Somme, so the French will never forget Verdun. At least 700,000 men, French and German. fell as the two armies strug- gled on a battlefield with the highest density of dead in the inglorious history of war- fare. . Both sides were spoiling fora fight in 1914, Young men sang lustily as they marched to the front, the French in blue and red (ignoring the introduction of khaki in the Boer War) then were shot to ribbons by hor- rifically accurate German machine-guns. Euphoria gave way to stubborn trench wartare and in 1916 the Germans decid- ed to attack Verdun and its forts, the strategy being chat its capture would be a mortal biow to France. Huge guns were brought up, such as the Big Bertha, which: fired a shell of 93 kg a distance of 14 km. The forts of Duaumont and Vaux were pounded day and night. Men were blown to pieces, buried alive and driven insane. When the skeliing stopped German infantry ran forward with grenades, bayonets and their new flame-throwers. French army doctrine was . always to counter-attack, which they always did and usually with tremendous casualties: But it shocked the Germans, whose plan to - bleed France dry in the - defence of Verdun gradually ‘became a nightmare they had to live with as well. /The town of Verdun was all but destroyed, and a short _» distahce away entire villages ~ were blown off the map. Every tree disappeared and - the land was pock-marked by _. the shells of more than 1,200 “~ Gertaan guns concentrated on a front of just cight miles. -; When the Big Berthas -cweie fired they broke win- -<. .dows two miles away, but _ just as feared by the poilus ; _. {the French soldiers had no _ Option but to grow beards) “were mine-throwers, which fired canisters filled with 100 ibs. of high explosives that . tumbled in the air and ’ brought death by slow- mation. : \. The order was given : never to retreat. One young Officer, almost surrounded and down toa few.men, did withdraw. After a brief court martial he faced a firing squad of his own men, who poins that neither could win the war. After this che British and the Americans plaved the decisive roles, although the British went to the Somme having learned nothing and lost 60,000 men on the first day. The name Verdun has passed into French history. As Alistair Horne says, it is 2 household legend for bravery and suffering; 300,000 French soldiers died a: Verdun, many of them with- out a grave, The shattered forts are a shrine, and nearby a huge, ugly memorial stands over the bones of countless unknown soldiers. What I found more evocative of the struggle is a nearby trench in which a line of French soldiers waiting to attack was buried alive by an exploding German shell. Today the tips of their bayo- nets stil marks their resting place. Then there is the cartier pigeon of Fort Vaux. As the Germans closed in the French commander sent off this immortal message: “We are still holding. Bur — relief is imperative — this is my last pigeon.” The bird was launched, but disorient- ed by a gas attack, returned to the fort. Several times it tried but failed to get through. Then the pigeon took off again and fluttered through the hell of gunfire, smoke and gas and made it to Verdun, delivered its message, and fell dead. It was given the Legion d’Henour, stuffed and now has a revered place in a Paris muscum. Was Verdun all in vain? Eight years after the tow- ering memoria} was built the countries were at war again. _ It produced a gripping epi- taph by a Frenchman, jean Dutourd, who, deploring the wavering convictions of his countrymen in 1940, said: “War is less costly than servi- tude. The choice is always between Verdun and Dachau.” Join Tom & Irene Rose for an overnight in faleudous Sunday, November 7, 1999 - North Shore News — 39 north shore news a - B Mami ty Nick and Corinna Selby, Lonely Planet, 258 pp., $24.50 Second edition. W Mumbai (Bombay) by David Collins, Lonely Planet, 258 pp., $23.50 First edition. Brussels, Bruges & Antwerp by Lesnne Logan, Geert Cole and Rence Cordes, Lonely Planet, 250 pp., $23.50 First edition. The three latest publica- tions in Lonely Planet’s incomparable travei guide series includes two first editions. David Collins’ overview of Mumbai (1999 population: 16 million, formerly known as Bombay) features a special sec- tion on Bollywood — the cen- tre of India’s feature film indus- of travel. While Loncly Planet has published previous guidehooks on Beigium the new version collects information on the harion’s major cities. 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