CUISINE SCENE THIS WEEK’S column is a bittersweet experience for me to try to put into words. Life is like that, it seems. It is always difficult to part with dear and cherished friends, especial- ly brilliant and gifted chefs. And especially North Vancouver's Wolfgang von Wieser. For the past five years, The Four Seasons Hotel and the Chartwell Dining Room have had von Wieser at the helm as executive chef. “nd, with his departure next month (Thursday, Dec. 8) — as he and his family move halfway around the - world to The Regent Melbourne, another Four Seasons property — comes Vancouver's great loss. Chef von Wieser has certainly left his mark in our fine dining arena. Tonight, at The Four Seasons, some 200 fellow chefs, friends, and - admirers are gathering for a chef- celebrity roast (“throw another chef on the barbie”). Our way of paying homage to a respected, loved man. _. If you have been following this - column, you are familiar with von Wieser. My very first column was on Chef Wolfgang, with those great - Grilled Prawns with Citrus Dipping Sauce. In the months that followed, you read columns about his wilder- ness trip to Vancouver Island (with the actual photo staged in my own West Vancouver driveway). ~ You also may have read about special-event evenings at The Four Seasons (like his salute to Italy with guest Chef Lubralon), and columns - written when he guest-instructed at local cooking schools. Perhaps my favorite (and now poignant) story was the one I ran this ~ past January on Wolfgang’s beloved mother, Gertrude. I lovingly referred to her as the Strudelkdnigin (Strudel Queen), after having tasted (and watched her prepare, in person) her famed Poppy Seed Strudel. I remember driving her to the Vancouver airport that week, with numerous copies of the News tucked {to her Suitcase, to take back proud- ly to Austria to share with friends. Iam grieved and saddened to report that this summer, in August, Frau von Wieser passed away quiet- ly in her hometown of Feldkirch, with Wolfgang at her bedside. I know that there are some lucky peo- ~ple up in heaven feasting on her Paprika Schnitzel and airy Nockerl. See what I mean about bittersweet? I sat down to a late lunch a few weeks ago, with the chef and his WALLY’S SEAFOOD Tiger Prawns 15 ony 599 1410 Lonsdale Ave. 984-4571 ATLA IA I LNCAP BAY AU AGG OO ELLE BEANE OLE 8 CL CNAME PR LRN PITMAN ALY SEE ALES BERRIES PRED LORY Dold WTSI ATT TAME AERA REI ERA RET SEE BR REAR EOE PAH, sous-chefs (a rare privilege that I never take for granted), and asked Wolfgang to share some of his thoughts upon leaving Vancouver. Over seared fresh foie gras and carmelized baby endive, roast pheas- ant, and the best chocolate créme briilée I have ever tasted — we laughed, told old stories, and had one of those lunches one never forgets. Chef von Wieser shared his thoughts and some recipes for you. “It was a challenge coming here (last post was Toronto). [ know I changed the cooking style, and I feel I accomplished a great deal in the area of management skills.” What was it like cooking in Vancouver? “T really enjoyed working with the great. variety of greens and local- ly grown vegetables and berries. There really is not a better place to cook in the summertime.” The availability of local fresh salmon, some of our indigenous products, the recent availability of fresh foie gras combined with all ‘manners of cooking (smoking, cur- ing, roasting, grilling) lent a canvas of creativity to von Wieser’s unique and distinctive menus. “The largest change I saw in the past five years was a change in the trend of fine dining. Twenty years ago fine meant lobster, caviar and beef. Now it’s more towards up- scale pasta, risotto, vegetables and seafood. Much lighter, more vegetar- ian dishes, healthier.” Chef?s tips: “When consumers are marketing, a bit of common sense is in order. Don’t always reach for that perfect waxed apple, take a look at locally grown unknown vari- eties. Try them! Experiment.” On going to Melbourne: “The reversal of seasons will be a chal- lenge. In some ways, this will be the summer of my life, It began last May, and when I assume my new post on Jan. 3, I will still have a whole-summer to go!” On leaving Vancouver: “Vancouver is certainly the place I would like to returm to ... to stay.” I'm going to hold him to that promise. Aufwiedersehen Chef. My favorite Chef anecdote: Back in Feldkirch, Wolfgang, aged 12 at the time, worked out an elabo- « rate plan for getting out of weekly Sunday church services. He promised to prepare the sup- per for the entire family, and to have it waiting when they returned home. It was the same menu every Sunday, the only menu he knew how to cook. Roast chicken, roasted pota- toes, sugar peas, and fresh apple pic. it worked for two years running. Four years later, at 16, this bril- liant young chef was named Best of Austria following his apprenticeship. Seems to me his plan was a good one indeed. See Local Ingredients page 54 COLUMBUS FARM MARKET NORTH VANCOL- VER’S Wolfgang von Wieser, executive ‘chef at The Four Seasons Hotel and Chartwell bids a heartfelt aufwieder- sehen as he relo- cates with his family to Melbourne, Aus- tralia, next month. He shared his signa- ture Pacific salmon with me for you -— a typically Canadian creative dish. NEWS photo Mike Wakefleid Corner of Edg emont’ ‘Blvd. 8 Quéens Wa reserve tha right | to Imit quantities. Prices In effect Wad. Nov. 16, to Tues. Now, 22, 1994 November 16" thru November 30/94 “Clip out this ad and receive an extra 5% off” limit one coupon per customer CAPPUCCINO KITCHEN Park Royal South (The Market) 925-0300.