32 - Wednesday, April 8, 1992 - North Shore News

Notes from
the int’l
wine fest

From pase 36
and St Julien, which they seem to
have been designed to emulate.

The only trouble is, their prices,
tending to the high side of $20 to
$30, put them in the same bracket
as the very wines they’re com-
peting against; they're not quite
Chateau Leoville Barton or
Chateau Talbot, but price-wise
theyre on a par with any iesser
wine from those parishes.

They certainly get a hard ride for
the money from wines like Spain‘s
Don Miguel Torres.

This wine is a reverse image of
their low-end Coronas, its
Cabernet component now upped
to 85% in the 1987 ! tasted.

The °86, currently available, has
been variable; some bottles are
fantastic, as the ‘83 and '85 were,
cthers are oddly ‘flat’; not bad,
merely indifferent.

The ‘8&7, at $14.70, apparently
available, has a much firmer struc-
ture than past years, not aiming at
likabitity but at a tong term rela-
tionship with someone prepared
to wait for the best yet to come.

There were few Burgundy all-
stars on display; | tried Mom-
messin’s Premier Cru Santenay
Clos Rosseau 1989, an excellent
text-book Pinot Noir, but | would
no more pay $27.65 for it than 1
would fork over $22 for Robert
Mondavi's slightly clinical version
of the same wine.

Burgundy, they say, is the wine
of Kings, while claret is the wine of
gentlemen. Maybe so, but Ill be
quite content with a bottle of
Chateau Latour as | contemplate
the numerous historical examples
of kings who have been anything
but gentiemen.

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