36 - Sunday, December 14; 1997 — North Shore News _ The Kashgar Kro Brady Fotheriagham Contributing Writer “BARBAROUSLY remote,” wrote Peter Fleming of Kashgar, a 2000-year-old desolate ~.yading town of mar- kets, bazaars and hus- tlers. After a month of crossing the desert in northera Ching by mountain bike, | decided it was time fora rest. Located along the China-Krvghizstan border, Kashgar would become my home for three weeks. Kashgar had been of enor- mous strategic and historic importance over the past two millennia. In the 19th centu- ry it became the centre of a struggle for control for Central Asia between Tsarist Russia and Victorian Britain in what historians called The Great Game. Mired in political intrigue, espionage and tribal warfare, Kashgar remains rich in cul- - rare and history to this dav. Larger cities in China designed in true Communist style, look like Winnipeg after 1 67-year strike by painters and cleaners. Kashgar, on the other hand, provides a wel- come relief. Westerners or dae atare afforded the urmost hospitality. Greeted with ai bao or next night’ § ‘on us. . north shore news ™N ra = nicles Photo Srady Fotheringham KRYGHIZ woman selling nan (bread) at a bazaar in Kashgar, China. The trading town’s Sunday Market is Asia’s largest attracting 100,000 people per week. yashis sis (hello), women in pill-box hats or girls adorned in vellow silk blouses and pink sequined dresses disclose a veiled look of curiosity when passing by. The Uyghur mens” dress of embroidered caps, cotton vests and but- ton-down shirts with lapels bigger than Don Cherry’s is a sight to see. It’s like Value Village meets Mark's Work Varchouse. The bazaars and markets are the liteblood of Kashgar. Ws all . part of our “Second Night Free” promotion. * So take advantage ofthe sal - _just please don‘ te “the: towels. ' Porte cee eee wew.haliday-ian.com ee ee ee een ce ee ee ne ee ee ce Redeem this coupen at a participating Holiday inn* hote}. Stay your first nignt at full price and the following nignt is free at any perticipating Holiday Inn hotel from November 14, 1997 to February 9. 1998. Hott San: Aroncay foe: Eazress! © Houcay Inet Senct® ¢ raisin ine SurSoree* Besores * Rooms may be limited, penods {@.B., * Avance reservations are required. * You must mention the Holiday inn * free” promotion shen making your © Present this oeainai Coupon ut Chec © Otter vad 11.°14/97-2/9/98 © One couport per customer per stay. * Coupon has no cash value * No copes or facsimiles accepted. Always the trading town, Kashgar’s Sunday Market is Asia’s largest attracting, 100,000 people cach week. Largely a Muslim affair, orga- nized anarchy prevails as silk, linen, jewelry, unsightly in- geric, scarves, rugs, hats, spices, crafts, camels and fruits and vegetables are bartered away. Half the fin is trying to communicate with the Turkish, Uvghur, Mandarin or Farsi speaking locals. *TERMS AND CONDITIONS: nights of jess. mcludey gratuities. suiyect 1G prior sale or unavailable duneng blackout of tgh«demund 12/31/97} as determined by independent hotel operé tors. Holiday Inn Express® Kelowna 2429 Highway 97 North, Kelowna, British Columbia V1X 4J2 Holiday Inn Express Parksville 424 W. Island Highway. Parksville. British Columbia V9OP 1K8 Holiday Inn® Vancouver-Airport 10720 Cambie Road. Richmond, British Columbia V6X 1K8 Holiday inn Express Vancouver-Airport (Bridgeport) 9351 Bridgeport Road. Richmond. British Columbia V6X 1S3 Holiday {nn Vancouver-Centre (Broadway) 711 W. Broadway, Vancouver, British Columbia VW5Z 3¥2 Holiday Inn Hotel & Suites Vancouver-Downtown 1110 Howe St., Vancouve:, Holiday !nn Express Vancouver-Northshore 1800 Capilano Rd.. North Vancouver. British Columbia V7P 3B6 3ritish Columbia V6Z 1R2 Carpenters, blacksmiths and tailors using band irons thar could double as boat anchors fill the bustling bazaars. Cigarettes go tor 60 cents while naive tourists shell out up to $3,000 US tor beautiful silk and felt carpets. Kashgar’s main attraction, the enormous $25- year-old Id Kah mosque complete with elaborate minarets, stands across from the market. Every day the muezzin sends out the call to prayer via loud- C Mtielneliatintien Dente Dantaliantantaatiaten te tentintinainelcalenManthntbetetnelentandiondasticdlisdtintentiadimtiadtialtianltontmnlt: | * Guest Stays wil be lunited to 10 consecutwe * Free mght inciudes reom and tas, and does not incedentals and other charges of » Free nant is oniy vitld dunng the same hetel stay as the ped mph, JOUTSBC NORSHONE'A NOALAN, . 250-763-0506 250-248-2232 604-821-1818 604-273-8080 " 604- 879-0514 604-684-2151 604-987-4461 speakers starting at 3:30 a.m. Several times a vear up to 20,000 people gather inside to worship, Beside the mosque is the town bievele parking lot. Bieveles are to China what bady piercing is to Marilyn Manson. Everybody has one complete with horn and tock — all $00 miilion of them You name it, [ did it in Kashgar. Arbitrating water: melon disputes with the police; discoing with Pakistani men (Arab stvle): feasting on bagsé (Chinese steamed dumplings); drinking chai at the old Soviet Consulate, waltzing to bad karaoke music: haggling with moneychangers; drinking 43% Xinjiang wine; or cating chicken fect at the night mar- ket. J will always remember three teenage Uyghur boys who can a barber shop in the bazaar district. Neither of us spoke the others’ language, bar we became friends never- theless, No Michael Jordan t- shirts, just clean-cut, bard- working kids who would pour you tea, park your bike GoT or clean vour can of Coca- Cola betore vou drank it, A bit of the past, a bit of the present - thats Kashgar, that’s the kids. —- Brady Fotheruniham is a Wea Unaconver writer, This us the second 1 a sertes of instaliuents decumenung bis trip via ényvele thronal Asia. TRAVEL CONSULTANT WANTED Established North Shore ABENCY Fequites 4 senior or imermediate agent, preferably with chentele. 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