14 - North Shore News — Sunday, August 6, 2000 Katharine Hamer News Reporter IN the decade since the collapse of Communism, former Soviet-controlled capi- tals have become popu- lar tourist destinations. Prague was the first, and now leisure and business inter- ests have spread rapidly east- ward through — Budapest, Warsaw, and up into the Baltic states. Tallinn, Estonia, is now being touted as “the new Prague” — and with good reason: while Tallinn’s out- skirts display the remnants of Soviet-era architecture, the Old Town remains a medieval throwback, with winding cob- blestone streets, castles, and Narrow stairs reminiscent of Paris’ Monunartre district. Smaller than Prague, Tallinn is also still largely unsullied by fast food restaurants and chain stores. Independent since 1991, Estonia seems to be a _ country in transit berween communism and capitalism. There are now as many Volkswagens as Ladas on the road, but few aggressive _ advertising campaigns in shop _ windows. However tourists ’ are seen as easy targets for budding entrepreneurs selling _ everything from homemade cassette tapes to children’s duvets out of a sports bag, especially near the ferry termi- nal. Though there is still a large Russian minority in the city, Estonian is now the primary lingua franca. Most retailers and restaurateurs also speak some English. A handful of British expatriates are respon- sible for some of the town’s funkier bars, including the Nimeta Baar (The Pub With No Name) and Nimega Baar (The Pub With a Name), next door to each other in Old Town's Suur- Kaaja street. The largest and most northern of the Baltic capitals, the city has seen the influence of German, Swedish, and Russian masters over the years, but is most proud of its courtly heritage, with strong links to the Hanseatic Knights. On the weekend we visited, Tallinn was celebrating a medieval festival, with local craftspeople clad in sackcloth frocks and curlicue footwear displaying their wares in the town square and regular per- formances of dancing and lute-playing. For western visitors, the city is remarkably inexpensive: good buys include local vodka — though be warned, it packs a punch — and hand-woven knitwear. An elegant three- course meal with wine only runs to about $35 a head, and there are a growing number ‘TRAVEL Tallinn’s medieval r of interesting culinary options. Elevant (Vene 5), an Indian restaurant with statuesque blonde waitresses and Asian dub humming in the back- ground, may also be the only place in the world offering moose curry —- while Exit (Sauna 2) serves up a mix of Georgian and Armenian cui- sine in a Frank Lloyd Wright- esque setting. A stroll through the Old Town allows vou to take in the domed spires of Alexander Nevski cathedral, some fine modernist paintings at the Estonian Art Museum, and a stunning view across the city’s rooftops and harbour. It’s aiso worth walking or taking 2 bus out to Kadriorg Park, thick with long grass and fir trees and boasting a palace which was once an occasional home to Peter the Great (it’s now inhabited by Estonian presi- dent Lennart Meri.) European Union and American passport holders no longer need a visa for Estonia — but Canadians do. For a couple of dollars, it’s worth picking up a copy of Tallinn in Your Pocket. Published five times a year, this guide is available at the airport and most hotels. Part of a regional series, it’s packed with comprehen- sive and very honest hotel, restaurant, and entertainment information. The guide is also CRYSTAL ig CRUISES. *A 2a.da South Pacific cruise for the. price of a a ‘19-day § South Pacific crue www.bcaa.be.ca © 268-5650 © $90-1545 Bt “Al BCAA al offices are regist d under the B.C: Travel Agencies Act WHALE WATCHIN Gl “The Ultimate Experience”. West Vancouver North Vancouver and destinations to choose from. BCAA Cruise, BCAA Cruise ey park. royal@beaa.be.ca B.C. Reg. No. 845-5 park.tilford@bcaa.be.ca B.C. Reg. No. 2910-5 ots yet t " NEWS pheto Katharine Hamer | TALLINN, the largest and most northem of the Baltic capitals, is proud of its court- ly heritage, with strong links to the Hanseatic Knights. . available online at . As facing port cities with only 43 nautical miles between them, Tallinn and Helsinki have always had healthy cultural and trading ties — and it’s easy to travel from one to the other by plane or in a one-and-a-half See Helsinki page 18 RAV AL SATEIESOOMTHESY Ea Be eceentirry ae 3 ‘has returned home to— the North Shore! _ For alt your travel needs _ Call Mona at fe "TRAVEL MASTERS | 990-7392 205 - 221 West Esplanade North Vancouver |. uc reg #3235-1 LONDON’ (Gatwick) ; wees j Depart Aug 20 « Return Sep 11,18. DUSSELDORF. wees mae Depart Sep 60 Return Se 14; 21,28 ~BERLIN cn of Depart Sep 7 Return Sep 22, 29, °y e : ahd ae Hes] ~ Yancouver departures. New bookings only. Prices are per persen and are subject to change without notice. Certain terms & condi tions apply. Not included: departure taxes, transportation tees, supplements and insurances. Space is avai ble at time of our : advertising deadline.” ;