P with West Vancouverites and all: Me Friday, June 24,:1988)- North Shore News ts W. VANCOUVER CAFE’S FOOD APPEALS TO EYE & TASTEBUD CAPERS, 2496 MARINE DRIVE, WEST VANCOUVER, 925-3316. : “VISA -AND: MASTERCARD aR INDOOR TABLES NOT; ( ACCESSIBLE BY WH EELCHAIR. REVERENCE for wholesome and interesting food has _established Capers. as one of West Vancouver’ s most Popu- * dar speciality grocery. stores.” * That same high food conscious" ‘. ness was initially invested in the, store’s first cafe offspring, which served delicious and bountiful. ~_ ~ breakfasts and brunches. The con-.... cept proved extremely popular - " dippie traditions: staff are not long-haired and laid so far back’. Si that service and product awareness, ‘» are concepts too heavy to relate.to man; and food stocked, though ‘confines of strict vegetarianism to + encompass robust and unadulter- - ated products from all corners of ~ the wonderful world of food!” “sRestaurant Capers bases its --. cuisine’on the philosophy that” _.. food does not have to be danger--. ous to your heart or your health to. be. marvellous.” - : ‘ Its dinner.menu is therefore: y vegetables, fish and fruit. = Lightness of. caloric is matched by lightness of entree cost ($9 to $13). But that's not to say.you won't selected for its quality and nutri- tional value, ranges far beyond the - ‘ NEWS photo Mell Lucente DANA. ST. “ONGE, head chef of Capers. restaurant, sits ‘down to a feast of sensonal cultivated greens and edible flowers and an entree of wild chinook sefmon grilled with rhubarb, “ginger and lime compote. Smokers, that increasingly - hard-done-by, rights-infringed, addicted lot, must wheeze away outside or attempt to controf. themaclives for two hours.” Once the restaurant's outside ‘deck is finished in July, howeys smokers will be permiticd i in th “open- -air section, For those who remember the foriner Capers Cafe, the new Capers Cafe might seem surpris- | pe ingly. formal, It has full-time =: ” waitresses, a real dinner menu and first-rate restaurant food and. dish | presentation. os -~.. But it still has that neighborly. Caperian feel and cyc to “be able to fall off the sensible food. # a wagon at: Capers..The restaurant’ menu includes such indulgences ps - Triple Chocolate, Ganache ($4;30 In addition to freshness of: food. ‘and lightness of-calorie,. Capers ©, prides itself.on freshness of ale. : mosphere and brightness 3 _ion and’a delicate butterfly creme © Visual presentation was enhane- _ ed inumensely by the strategic placement of purple nasturtiums. They added an interesting floral. ‘flavor along with their bold color, The Wee Man, who had just completed his ritual christening of our table with a glass of milk, heartily approved of both prawns and sauce, | was lucky to get enough for test purposes. !n the entree division, we sampl- ~eda child's portion of Free Range Egg Fettuccine ($5.50), Chicken Breast ($12.75) and Wild. Chinook * Salmon ($12.95). : Free Range Fettuccine, which i is _ allowed to wander freely.on the | Capers pasta farm, came with a, ; Simple cream.Parmesan cheese ° __ sauce and a ‘cilorful selection of “vegetables that included red and green pepipers and yellow squash. My Chicken Breast was bathed in a deep red cabernet butter sauce. It was pleasantly tart and, with its blood oranges, had a fla: vor reminiscent of raspberries. . The Wild Chinook was braised . in'a cream and rhubarb creme fraiche that inspired a somewhat frightening wildness in my salm- on-loving wife’s appetite. ~ Both dishes were presented with. a blend of wild and brown rice and - cashews and an outstanding selec- ° tion of vegetables that included two whole baby carrots, a large’ white radish, asparagus spears, a pickled beet and a cherry tomato. Yellow pansies added another ~ . floral flourish. Entrees are light. Servings are extremely. attractive: but might be: considered small by those used to” Big Country’ meat and potatoes." fare, OOP, ' The restaurant had’ no fiquor- _jicence when I dined there, but it is. ‘now licensed to serve ‘beer and. _ wine, : Capers’ wine list’ features West Coast vintages to complement the “fine West Coast cuisine produced: by head thef Dana St. Onge. | : a . -» For those who prefer non:: af .» alcoholic liquid accompanim teas. > the restaurant has'a ‘good section *: of fresh raw juices and other. liqui I tested a wide spectrum of the res- taurant’s food and patience. The Vegetable Soup of the Day ($3.25) was a rich orange yam and sweet potato combination, |... Appealing to both cye and tastebud, the soup came decorated with a sprig of mint in its midsec- fraiche design. The fraiche, a mix- | tureof cream and buttermilk or ‘sour cream, adds’ a gentle, creamy bite to food... : I tested B.C. Prawns (35. 95) . fram the appetizer and light meal “section. The order included five - * medium-sized prawns ceposing *: over a delicious garlic and chive butter sauce that went extremely, swell with the fresti bread’ provided.