ALTHOUGH THE weather forecast says it’s winter, the ready-to-wear forecast is calling for spring. Let your mind wander from winter wetness to spring sunshine for a few moments, and take a look at what design- ers across the Atlantic recently unveiled at the first of the spring ’92 collections. Carol Crenna FASHION STATEMENTS Here is a sneak preview of spr- ing, summarized from Paris and Milan runways. European designers are in love with romance. They show clothes that could launch an affair, and put flirtation on fast-forward. The Steamy virus that created an epidemic of feminine, hot-to-trot fushions at recent runway shows put a stop to any man-tailored look that was creeping into the winter collections. Designs for Spring are all innocence and fuss on the surface ... and all simmer- ing seduction underneath. MELANESE FLAIR Italian designers are in pursuit of the female ideal. They admire the feminine form, but they do leave a little up to the imagina- tion. The type of poured-on shapes that demand short breaths and light lunches are less popular for spring, and softer fabrics allow more flattering, and more comfortable silhouettes. @ Color: The Italians dish up ice cream colors, vanilla and brights to suit all tastes. Even the more classic lines go for brights. @ Fabrics: Italians are not shy, showing transparent ‘fabrics in chiffon, tulle and organza. Sheerness is also shown in crocheting and lots of fishnet. At the other end of the runway, the hardcore motorcycle image is stil! alive in leather and suede. Fabrics are used in inspired new ways as linen is shown in every shape for day and terry cloth is showing up on dresses and even cowboy boots. @ Jeans: They start in denim and then take off in silk, satin and leather. They are best in white denim, but are also shown in wildly colored, printed denim. They are usually worn hip-holding tight. @ Lingerie: A trend that began last season in Paris has been stolen for spring by Milan. Sexy cups, skirts that look more like slips, corsets and bustier shapes are highlighted. @ Fit and Flair: Milanese design- ers who were cautious to show shape for fall have now adopted the A-line, trapeze and pouf sil- honettes in a big way. @ Wide Pants: They never sell but designers love to make them. @ Bareness: Above the waist, below the waist, there is nowhere left to hide. @ Skirt Lengths: Both long and TD Btn tifa 4 py “hy ye: lay key Si “aghtig, ; yak by GI 5s 4, e short skirts are shown, as design- ers seem reluctant to set a prece- dent toward longer lengths. Short still rules most collections, but long, which starts just below the knee and falls right at the ankle, is on its way. @ Fringe: Though its inspiration ranges from Spanish dancers to prostitutes to cowboys, it all looks the same, and it’s all flirtatiously fun. DESIGNER HIGHLIGHTS Among the most memorable pieces at Milanese shows were bright, raw silk pant suits with wide or slim legs, and the black knit dresses by Complice. Gianfrance Ferre shows some sexy skin-tight pants with soft blouses that fail nonchalantly over the shoulder, lots of sleek pant suits and slitted long skirts. Laura Biagotti loves the trapeze shape and cuts most of her coats and dresses in silky swing and A- line looks. She also likes flowers, bright colors and soft cashmere knit catsuits, Valentino shows his skirts long and very slim or long and fluid with silky- fabrics and pleating. He likes polka dots. Always an in- novator, he makes his long. sophisticated skirts become short Europe] THE NEWS from Europe is that romance and femininity are influencing spring '92 designs trom Italy and sexy with a few removeable snaps. Gianni Versace does well with his impeccably detailed ribbon jackets, punchy graphic jeans, crinoline skirts, fluid jumpsuits and printed and jeweled catsuits, with piles of gold accessories. Franco Moschino shows crop- ped and embroidered jackets and sweaters paired with tight, silk crepe jeans. He gives silly mixed messages with his ‘‘Fashion/ Fashoff’’ and ‘In Pizza We Trust’’ prints. Giorgio Armani prefers flippy silk pleated skirts worn with tailored jackets. His line includes short skirts, regimental striped skirts and jackets, lots of pants and a new cardigan jacket with a tong, slim lapel. The lively design accents come from Milan’s latest success story, Rifat Ozbek, who shows off-the- shoulder fringed tops, appaloosa print leggings, long tight skirts, and long fitted jackets with cowgirl fringed skirts. PARISIAN CLOUT Parisian designers treat ladies with respect, showing a parade of feminine dresses in soft, body- skimming fabrics. Cool soft colors give an added polish to the collec- tions, with the only warmth being added by the hot- blooded midriff baring tops, see-through fabrics, and slits up to there. @ Lean Shapes: Long over long silhouettes are shown for the first time in years, and are kept clean lined and slim. Long skirts that may vary from just below the knee to brushing the ankle and made stretchy snug. Suits are most often chic and fitted. @ Soft Color: Parisians prefer their colors traditionally neutral in navy and white combinations, pretty pastels used for florals, off white, powder room pale colors, shades such as rose and. amber mixed with gold, and the prere- quisite black. @ Shicts: A plain simple shirt is one of the most prominent items shown short and tied femininely at the waist or long and lean over skirts. Se @ Short and long: Skirts, pants and shorts were shown both short and long by many, some leaning more toward short, and others making a definite statement with just a couple of extra inches add- ed from last fall. ® Bareness: Bustier and bra shapes show cleavage, cropped © tops bare the midriff, novelty cut-outs give a glimpse of skin, and the shortest skirts in Europe reveal as much leg as possible. ® Prints: Stripes are hot, polka dots dot some collections, florals are feminine and traditional, and ethnic patterns add fun. @ Fabrics: Terry cloth, spring tweeds, stretchy knits, lace, chif- fon and tulle, crisp cottons, rayon__ *and silk. . o DESIGNER. HIGHLIGHTS Christian LaCroix solves the skirt or pants dilemma by in-. | troducing his skirt-pants, which are extra wide pants that are cut below the ankle and slit. to the thigh on either side. LaCroix’s skirts are two inches above the knee. : ee Chanel’s suits range from sophisticated and fitted - pastel tweed dresses with matching jackets to unstructured terry cloth styles. Several 1940s aviater looks are shown. Striped shirt dresses have thigh-high slits, construction worker undershirts are paired with tweed or evening tulle and stretchy dresses and skirts button half way up the back and snugly cover the knee. . Yves Saint Laurent keeps it short in floral dresses, low cut ruffled neckline dresses, and pouffed and gathered-up skirted dresses, and nautical looks. He also likes slim, cuffed pants that are above the ankle, and shown with bras, midriff tops and safari jackets. Ungaro’s trademark patterned, silk-waisted dresses are’ thigh length, as are his wool and cotton suits. Flouncy petticoat dresses and long, patterned sarongs with shorts beneath are also shown. Although Claude Montana does show longer skirts which are sheer, double-layered or slit high, he prefers mid to upper thigh length skirts, dresses and shorts suits. His mannish white shirts are given new feminine touches when cropped and tied with a big bow over very fitted dresses. Karl Lagerfeld shows short, striped tunics that end at the top of the thigh, and short evening dresses, doubled layered long skirts with opaque fabric on top and chiffon below, black stretchy ankle length evening skirts. Christian Dior, now designed by Gianfranco Ferre, reveals slick and serious dresses and suits that are narrow and cut to the thigh. Ankle-length evening dresses and pants are shown narrow and very wide with great big shirts.