“BISTRO, BOUNTY... Hans. Kaltenbach, owner
presenis his regionally famous steak tartare.

. ‘Bistro Piccolo, 770 Marine Dry:
West Vancouver, 926-0833. Visa,
MasterCard and American Ex- «
press: | accepted. Ope for lunch:

and dinner Moriday to Saturday. ©

Closed Sundays. Take the kids or .

calla babysitter? Cali a a babysitter.” f

Q, ick an Potato Soup (53. 95)
@ Steak Tartaré ($13.5 .

@ Zuricher Coschncizetes

g 13.95)’

1STRO PICCOLO’ 5
fine culinary tune
“may be into its last

“refrain. :

. Owner, chef, sous-chef, salad

hef, prep-man and head dish-”
washer Hans Kaltenbach has
operated his smal] German-style.
bistro on the ground floor of that
odd triangular Park Royal Shop-
‘_ ping Centre building for nearly 10
“years.

It has been a personal iabor of
love. But now, with the future of
that odd triangular building uncer-
tain, the Piccolo is perhaps
“becoming merely 2 a personal labor.

His restaurant's food has always
been good, and on some nights it
“ranks with the best on the North
"Shore. ra

* Kaltenbach honed his skills as a
chef in the kitchens of the
‘Ambleside Inn and the Park Royal
Hotel prior to opening the Piccolo.

He is a creator of fine sauces
‘and hearty soups. His passion is
the rich and refined cuisines of .

, Germany and Switzerland.

Dishes such as House Spatzle

($8.95), a German-style dumpling

~~ ‘shaped into thin noodles and serv-

~ ed with a creamy Chanterelle
_ sauce; Grilled Weisswurst ($8.95);
“and the superb Piccolo Steak Tar-
» tare ($13.95) have established the
“small restaurant's reputation as a

CORRECTION NOTICE

in our B8-4 Bay Day flyer,
Grenadier Sweaters Top and
Pants set on page 16 is nota
set.

Sorry for any inconvenience
this may have caused.

‘landlord has other p
site.

Timothy Renshaw _
TABLE HOPPING

at

great informal North Shore loca-

tion for fine German food.
Kaltenbach’s delicious sour,

‘cream cake, which he makes in

the restaurant’s small kitchen, is

ample proof that his skills as a -.

baker rival his skills as a chef.
Meanwhile, George Paprock, .

_ the Piccolo’s genial waiter/maitre

d’/busboy remains the genial and

unflappable front man of the bistro

_ duo,

But signs of wear and tear are
‘everywhere in the Piccolo:
burned-out light bulbs need
changing, walls need painting, in-
terior decor needs brightening and

upgrading.

Kaltenbach is acutely aware of
his restaurant's much-needed
facelift, but the Piccolo is only a
tenant in the building, and the

ans for the

Larco Investments Ltd., the
owner of Park Royal and the force
behind the shopping centre's cur-
rent multi-million-doltiar metamor-
phosis, has no place in its grand
plans for a dowdy triangular
building that blocks public view of
a portion of its fine south mall
facade.

The company has in mind some-
thing a little more esthetically
pleasing, something that allows
proper appreciation of their Park
Royal showcase. Open space

oO ee re cere ee ee ee cee ce ae ee ees om ee ee a eS A A a MD SC PH SON COE SEND OES EMD ENR MD AM OO SOND A LET OEE es SED om ERs

Sa

NEWS photo Paul MeGrath.

and head chef of West. Vancouver’ s Bistro Piccolo,

* perhaps. .

‘The Listro is now the last
business in the building. Kalten-
bach still has'a couple of years left ”

_ on his lease, but the situation

leaves little inspiration and little ©
reason to invest time and effort in
upgrading interiors or facilities.

He is left impaled on the horns
of a beastly restaurant trade

. dilemma: close and move to...

brighter, more inspiring grounds or
stay and service the area he knows
and the clientele he has built up
over the past decade.

While the chef ponders his

i. future, however, he remains

commnitted to the quality of the
food he prepares alone in his
kitchen.

A recent Friday night sampling
found Kaltenbach’s hand-chopped
Steak Tartare as good as ever: ‘

- bright red filet mignon prepared

with black and cayenne pepper,
anchovies, paprika, capers and a
splash of German brandy and top-
ped with rings of raw white onion.

Surrounding the tartare: white
asparagus spears, shredded carrot,
sliced pickles, stuffed green olives,
tomato and a dollop of hot
Poupon mustard.

Unfortunately, Spatzle was not
available, the restaurant's entire
stock having been devoured
earlier in the day by bands of _
visiting Germans holidaying in the
nearby Capilano trailer park.

Also running low was the Pic-
colo’s wine cellar (about 20 selec-
tions, $15 to $30). Many bottles
were not available, and many
more were available only in
single-bottle quantities.

Despite an uncertain future in its
current location, the Piccolo con-
tinues to produce fine central
European cuisine at reasonable
prices (appetizers $4 to $5; entrees
$8.50 to $15) in worn, but con-
genial surroundings.

Piccolo encores are in order.

(6 OZ. TOP SIRLOIN)

; OR SLIPPER LOBSTER DINNER

Dinner includes Garnish,
I Rice or Potatoes and

} Sourdough Bread. Lobster

! is broiled with or without
i garlic

ONLY

Wednesday, September 29, 1993 - North Shore News ~ 27

a “NEW”
CORAL COURT 4
{Recently Remodeled)

SZECHUAN CUISINE

8 When 3 or more dishes from menu are ordered,
With this ad only! Expires Oct. 31/93. Wednesday through Sunday.

* Dine-in only -
_¢ Licensed

e Air Conditioned
. i © Free Delivery

230 Lonsdale Ave. N Van
987-3303

Mive ANS ?
Fi tals THIS MEEK
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SATURDAY § Sut pity PRU CM - CHOSE
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PLUS OUR HEAVENLY HARPAST VERS ff
LED. ANG uF Sony BRUMEA. —

Sunday Brunch Oper Nba:

2427 Marine Drive, War. 926-8838

SEAFOOD AND:
STEAKHOUSE

.  Thiso.
month’ S special :

eak

Tender, 8 oz. New York Steak, accompanied by Deep Fried Prawns
and Scallops, served with baked potato and vegetables. Includes :
Soup or Salad.

$10.00 off the total food
bill with this coupon when
2 or more entrees are pur-
chased. Valid for dinner,

‘7 days a week.
¥ Expires

VALUE oct. 3103

This coupon can be used on the
above special of the month:

Seafood & Steak House on

a 2070 Marine Dr., N.van. 98O-2641

ia nae

(SLIPPER LOBSTER)

Offer ends Oct. 6/93
Only one coupon per party’ ’

reg. 15.95 Sea Mates .
” SEAFOOD RESTAURANT _
980-1213 CLOSED MONDAY 998 Marine Drive, N.Van.

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