14 — Sunday, November 3, 1991 ~ North Shore News

FASHION

The long and short of it

Movement is an integral component of fall hair designs

HERE IS the long and the
short of it. Hair trends this
fall provide lots of options
for hair styles at any length,
with any texture. If your
last cut cut you off from
versatility, and locked you
into one look, consider hair
designs for 1991-92.

Carol
Crenna

FASHION ‘STATEMENTS

. Whether ° You’ prefer your hair
short -or long,’ this -fall’s crop of
new cuts can provide cutting-edge
style and quick-change ease. These

‘ chameleon cuts.can be totally re-
‘worked jnto a new look with the

- flick of a comb, the dab of gel or
the power of a blow dryer.

. From short. and bobbed to long
and layered, if there is one com-
mon element in hair this fall it is
movement. Sophisticated hair gets
a jolt cf youthful energy as it
bounces ‘and falls, either grazing

‘the ear, skimming the chin or
sweeping vast the shoulder. Breezy
.Styles get a soft body wave and

. fazor cut edges for natural swing.

1992 FORECAST

_:. The hair forecast from Jon Paul
’ Holt, owner of Avantgarde Ar-
tistic Centre in Yaletown, focuses
on color and versatility. Holt is
now focusing his attention toward
spring/summer °92, and the fol-
lowing trends reflect the future in
-hair design, as well as fall’s cut
and color story.

Holt, who has. been a North
Shore resident since he moved
‘from England more than 10 years
ago, states that hiir lengths take
extremes this seascn, and are ei-
ther long or short.

“Long hair is shown very shiny
. and sleek, and short hair will con-
tinue to have a ’60s influence only
until spring 92, Next year the '70s
will be the major inspiration,’
Holt explains.

Shags and afro perms similar to
those popular in the ’70s are al-
ready being seen in Britain, where
they are taking their dressing cues
from that decade.

For fall, cascades of. curls and
wild manes have been tamed, and
are replaced by well-mannered,
sleek waves. Perms, if they are
used at all, are much softer.
Well-defined waves fall down the
side of the face on long hair, and
sophisticated styles on shorter hair
are reminiscent of glamor queen
coifs of the "30s and ’40s. Jean
Harlow, Joan Crawford, Marlene
Dietrich arid Marilyn Monroe ia-
spire the looks.

These controlled waves have
more polish to suit a ready-to-
wear dressed-up image. Color is
much stronger and more vibrant,
according to Holt. Long hair is
varnished with hues of red, com-

FROM SHORT and bobbed to lorig and lzyered, if there is one common element in hair this fail it is movement: _

posite golds accentuated with dark
colors such as black or deep
burgundy.

“Women are no longer afraid
to get their hair colored if it im-
proves their image. It is very fash-
jonable. They are not just trying
to hide grey now, they are making
a fashion statement,” Holt says.

The most stylish shade for fall
is the same shade that tcok the
fashion. world by storm. ‘‘Red.

Red. Red. And, bleach blonde- —

turned-red,”’ stresses Holt. Despite
the urge to turn blonde last
season, the swing back to red has
become very apparent, especially
among trend setters such as top
models anc movie starlettes.

Linda Evangelista, who
transformed her dark hair into
platinum blonde (and chopped it
very short) a few seasons ago
started a popular trend in hair,
but she has now changed it to a
deep shade of red.

Heit feels that the reasons are

. purely practical. “‘No matter how

good the stylist or the hair pro-
duct, the hair can only take a cer-
tain amount of coloring before it
is damaged. For most people,
blonde hair requires constant
upkeep which will fry hair.
Evangelista’s hair was falling out,
it was so over-colored.””

Holt believes in flexible hair.

- He says that every hair style

should be either long enough or
shart enough to do a couple of
different looks with it, because
everyone wants to project dif-
ferent images.

“*it is not a look that states ‘this

is all that I*ve got,’ it is more:

‘Hey, this look is good, and
tomorrow if I want to wear it dif-
ferently that will look fabulous
too.” Women like to be able to
change their hair with their ward-
robe,”’ says Holt.

Your hair cut should allow
maximum play allowance, no
matter what length. If you are cl-
inging to your long hair because
you have always felt that short
hair is inflexible, or you simply

have not been aware that your -

hair is in need of seasonal prun-
ing, there is a short cut to a new
look. .

Fali trends are proof-positive
that short hair can be long on
looks and short on maintenance,
especially if the bangs and crown
have been kept long. Ask your
stylist to leave length on top to let
your hair move, and allow you to
use partings as a way to change
the direction and shape of hair.
Sculpting gels and jotions are your
best tool to change short hair,
which can be blunt cut or layered.

Short hair. cuts this season are
face-framing when they are
straight, with a headful of bangs
that emphasize the eyes. Wavey
shapes get old fashioned rollers,
drop sets and comb outs for
‘‘dos’ which are very feminine,

whether they are swept up and out .
head-hugging:

or left in loose,
curls,

Short cut heads are also slicked
smooth, given a slight wave or
tousled in devil-may-care fashion
to complement the boyish shapes
that are in fall’s ready-to-wear
collections,

When long hair is ‘‘done’’ for
professional or formal dressing, it
is pulled up into shiny lacquered
knots. Classic chignons are shown
at the nape of the neck, youthful
coils are perched at the top of the
head, multiple hair knots cover
the head in tiny ben shapes, and
clean, simple ponytails are secured
at the nape of the neck.

HAIR MAKEOVERS

A change in hairstyle makes a
memorable difference to your
look. But, the true difference is in
the way a major physical change
such as this effects your se!f-
esteem. Just as the hair commer-
cial on television once quoted,
‘When you look good, you feel

good, and when you feel good, .

you do great!”’

Beauty makeovers, such as the
eaes which Avant’ Garde Hair
Studio’ performs weekly on UTV
‘Channel: 13’s afternoon program,
ave given many women a new
oitlook on life as well as
themselves. :

The show is very popular
because, Holt says, ‘‘The viewers
like the fact that. we choose real
people that they can relate to.’’
Letters flood into the studio of-
fices after each show, from which
the next makeover viewers are
chosen.

Avant Garde has also acquired
a regular radio spot on KISS FM’s
Vancouver at Noon show. It
began. when its hair design team
was a guest on the show with an
open line for listeners to ask ques-
tions. The switch board was so
jammed with callers that the

show's producer - “asked. ‘Avant *
Garde’s designers fo return on ‘a -
regular basis. The team feels that -
this overwhelming response is due
to the public’s growing awareness . B
towards their health and.: well--.
being, the products available /on.
the market, and concern for the :
environment. -
Holt says - “The . more you”
stretch your creative - limitations, : -
the more you learn about yourself
and the busiaess of hairstyling.”
Holt was recently honored by |
being selected as one.of the five. .
finalists: in the Canadian. Hair-
dresser..of the Year Awards..’91 _
for the second consecutive year. :
. He has several movie star;clients
to. his credit, shown photographed
* his .wall, including. Darryl .

Hannah, Glen Close and Meg: a

Ryan.

Crenna’s quick snips

nancial Consultant Services
Inc., a Toronto firm, presented
a workshop to the industry en-
titled Cash Flow and Prof-
itability in that city in October.

According to Audrey
Gostlin’s Inside Fashion the
following subjects were
discussed that may be of inter-
est to consumers as well as
fashion retailers in the 1990s:

@ “The 1990s is a decade of
new realism ... real things, real
people, real values.’* This
means that consumers will be
“giving up the glitz, feeling
status is not found in symbols,
but earned through social re-
sponsibility, value shopping in-
stead of wanton con-
sumerism;’’

@ The successful formula
for a retail business is to sell
“low price and high design;’’

@ Reasons for failure in the -

"90s include bankruptcy due to
over-expansion which happened
during the ’80s, a reluctancy to
change with the times, market
saturation (meaning oOver-..
stored) and. a cash-poor: socie-
ty;

@ Continuing trends in the
fashion. business include an
over-stored -retail environment
(too many stores with too -
many choices for the con-
sumer), foreign interest in the -
fashion market, and greater at-
tention to service because of
the greater competition.

© Future trends beginning in |
1992 include fewer mergers. and .
acquisitions and superstores
will be expanded to include
more fashion items. The
weakness of the shopping cen-
tre industry will provide new
opportunities for fashion
retailers who are — financially
able and well-positioned for
expansion,