Arch ant Fron page 36 Still on an historic theme, F recommend the Tadich Grill, a no-nonsense restaurant that’s thrived in the financial district in one incarnation or another since the gold rush era of the F800s. In the early evening, well-dressed business types and curious tourists crowd the fover, and then when there’s an opening, sidle up to the beautifill wood bar that runs the length of the room and order (traditionally) champagne. Once you've eventually snagged a table, a wait- er takes your order and delivers a steamy crab or shrimp casserole or sautéed beef and onion with dispatch. Walk a few blocks south of the Embarcadero Center and you'll come to Market Sereet, a major thoroughfare with plenty of eye-popping sights of the human. variety, and street-level trams that whisk you westward to the caticing Castro and Mission districts. However, save that ram tip for another day, and cross to the south side of Market Street into the district known as SOMA (as in south- of-Market). Here you'll find the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, a modernist light-filled building with a spectacular over-head walkway: the building offers almost as much a pleasure as its permanent collection of paintings and tour- ing exhibits. Nearby is the Ansel Adams Centre for Photography, a must-stop for the fegion of Adams admirers. After your gallery visits (and lunch or after- noon tea at the MOMA’s excellent sidewalk café), amble through the streets of SOMA — a burgeoning arts scene replete with cutting-edge galleries, experimental theatre, trendy restau- rants, discount clothing shops and interesting looking people. I observed a tall, slim black man dressed in beige trousers with a razor-sharp EC Reg 1060.3 4 Nights. Mar 16.23 Friday deportures » NonStop fights: te es an, Wed, & Fri. : every ‘fom ve ce sa NB vilbonabdace oeehemcce FSi tectural UNGS Cf CI S. a é iy Wai crease, navy jacket and spectacular broad- brimmed grev-wool car. stride briskly along Third Street in fine San Franciscan style. If vow walk from the Embarcadero eastward, you quickly come to the Justin Herman Plaza, where the annual Kristi Yamaguchi Holiday Ice Rink is open to the pub- lic daily from 10 am. to 10 p.m. (and 11:30 p-m. on Friday and Saturday) until Jan. 7. Opposite the plaza on the foreshore of San Francisco Bay stands the 1896 Ferry Building and its 70-metre clack tower, modelled after the cathedral campanile in Seville. Spain. Ferries run trom here to the hip watertront communities of Tiburon and Sausalito on the far shore of the bay (although ferry service can be infrequent or seasonal, so check the schedules). Alternately, waik westward along the water- front promenade to Fisherman's Wharf and Ghirardelii Square. or, i? you're up to it, as far as The Presidio recreational area and Golden Gate Bridge. For those still drawn te the buzz of the inner city, lush, lively Union Square and its surround- ing clusters of upscale department stores, cle- gant shops, grand hotels and theatres such as the 1910) Geary, home to the American Conservatory Theater, wait to be explored. You might also want to check out the Pan Pacific Hotel, just off Union Square on fashion- able Post Street, decorated — to a point of deca- dence, the hotel concedes — with cascading snowtlakes and a forest of live Christmas trees. 900 Fer details on ferry schedules, ice-skating fees, hotel accommodation and more, visit , or call (415)-391-2000 or 1-800-220-5747. The San Francisco Visitors Information Centre is located just off Union Square, at Market and Powell streets, in the Hallidie Plaza. 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