better than some of the stuff that might

G* RESTAURANTS on my mind. That’s

have taken up residence in that unoccupied
space, of course. The concentration was partly in-
spired by a telephone call from a woman concerned
about her elderly parents’ eating habits, partly due
to reports of a couple of surveys that I’d come

across.
All surveys are suspect, be-

ing often subjective selection
carefully manipulated by so-
meone with an axe to grind
(or even just a paring knife);
nonetheless, they exert in-
fluence. One thinks about
them, even while peeking
through the holes in their
conclusions.

The survey that raised my
eyebrows and my hackles just
lately was being published by
an Englishman prominent in
culinary circles in Europe. It
consisted of a guide that for
the first time includes
‘‘American’’ restaurants
amongst those of 17 other
countries to which he has ap-
plied ‘‘identical gastronomic
criteria. . . of the most exac-
ting European standards.’’
So, of the twelve restaurants
in North America to earn two
stars, nine offer French
cuisine.

Canada? They’re still
chewing pemmican up there,
and as for world-class ham-
burgers, cobs of tender but-
tered corn, Martha
Washington cake, pan-fried
Olympic oysters and Texas
chili — pah! it’s not French.
And on top of it all he sums
up with the observation that
‘*there are no two ways about
culinary value: good food is
good food.’’ Chap’s mad.

Having aired my spleen,
back to the caller wanting

Fa
i
|

well-balanced and appetizing
nutrition?

Not easy. Certainly | can
recall seeing ‘‘seniors’ por-
tions’’ on some menus, along
with the customary
*‘children’s portions’’, but so
infrequently that they now
escape me. It is unfortunate
that most of our restaurants
feature meat, or fish, which

the kitchen
ranger

by Eleanor
Godley

help for her senior relatives.
She asks me if I can recom-
mend restaurants that cater
to senior diners. Discussion
has revealed that they feel
cooking for themselves is too
arduous; that they are not at-
tracted to the Meals on
Wheels plan; and that they
have sufficient income to per-
mit them to go out for their
main meal once a day. In
what places can they count
on moderate portions and

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they flesh out, if you will par-
don the expression, with rice,
or those handy ‘‘french-
fries’’, plus a portion of salad
delivered by a truck. The
meat or fish serving is often
too much for the middle-
aged, let alone the elderly,
and accompaniments of in-
teresting vegetables are con-
spicuously absent.

Which brings me to the se-
cond survey, one done to
underline the risks of ‘‘eating
out’’ on a regular basis. It
pointed out that people con-
demned to daily meals in
restaurants were generally
noticeably deficient in
Vitamins A and C, which are
found in good supply in
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very few eating-houses that

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~~
“7

BEE food | 9
Home nutrition wins

emphasize, or even respect,
this requirement.

Why, in California,
storehouse of vegetable
abundance, a cooked
vegetable with dinner is rare.
Salad, always, even an extra
tray with olives and celery.
One night when the sea bass
was discussed with the
waiter, he was asked what
tonight's vegetable was. ‘‘I
think it’s broccoli.’’ ‘‘Good,
I tike broccoli.””’ But when
the meal came, there was
rice. The vegetable was broc-
coli, maybe, but it existed on-
ly in the mind.

The reasons are pretty ob-
vious, when you consider the
labor-intensive nature of
vegetables — all that washing
and peeling and chopping
and steaming and saucing, to
say nothing of the daily shop-
ping needed. Why bother,
when you can fill the patron
up with a slab of beef and
some ready-mix potatoes and
a pre-packaged salad? So |
have to say to the concerned
lady that there is no good
substitute for home-made,
where one can govern quan-
tities and quality and variety
and general goodness. That
‘‘eating out’’ survey was one

that

I could believe in.

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980-2218

C17 - Wednesday, March 14, 1984 - North Shore News

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